Thank you Mr Local
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I learned to surf more than ten years ago and instantly fell in love with the overwhelming feeling of adrenaline rushing through my veins after charging down a perfect blue wall of bliss. Over the past 10 odd years, I’ve been surfing at the same surf spot, with the same crowd. I’ve made a couple of chomma in the water and enjoy the conventional weather conversations that do the rounds out at backline. At this stage you may be thinking that I live near the ocean and have a local surf spot. Well, this is where it gets interesting – I’m actually a born and bred Pretoria oue. In fact I still live and work here and unfortunately as a result I only get the opportunity to surf once or twice a year, mostly during the holidays. However, for a “Vaalie”, I think I surf pretty decent. Photographer: Faine Loubser/ Location: Western Cape Over the years, it became obvious who the locals of “my” local surf spot were and daymn did they make sure you knew it. With this being said, it’s never bothered me, I know the rules and I have nothing but respect for them and the guys […]