Big and scrappy conditions this morning
Hello Friends,
Thursday morning started off mostly sunny with a brisk 11-18 kt westerly and 3 metres of raw looking 9-second SE swell energy thundering into the beaches. Set wave faces were solidly overhead and they were turning up at regular intervals for the crowd at the point and along the beach north from there. The beach was consistently bigger than the point so this is definitely not a morning for beginners or anyone who isn’t fit and experienced. It was still 9 C just before 0900, so that means the water’s 10 C warmer than the air.
A quick glance at the models reveals that we can expect solid but gradually declining south swell into the weekend. Being Thursday, we can look forward to the Goat’s words of surf wisdom about the week ahead. So check back later for that.
Know your limits folks, and have yourself a top old Thursday!
Weather Situation
Strong to gale-force southerly winds and large powerful waves that developed behind a cold front, are persisting on Thursday. Wind and surf conditions will gradually ease from Friday as a high pressure system drifts across the region, with winds turning northerly. Following this, winds will tend westerly and strengthen over the weekend and into early next week as a series of cold fronts are forecast to cross the coastal waters.
Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast
- Winds
- Southerly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots during the morning. Winds tending southwesterly 10 to 15 knots in the late evening.
- Seas
- 2.5 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 2 metres around midday, then decreasing to 1 metre later in the evening.
- Swell
- Southerly 2.5 to 3 metres inshore, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres offshore.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers.
- Caution
- Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Friday 6 June
- Winds
- Southwesterly 10 to 15 knots turning west to northwesterly below 10 knots early in the morning then tending north to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots in the middle of the day. Winds reaching up to 20 knots offshore in the late evening.
- Seas
- Around 1 metre.
- Swell
- Southerly 2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1.5 to 2 metres around midday.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy.
Saturday 7 June
- Winds
- Northwesterly 15 to 20 knots turning westerly during the afternoon.
- Seas
- Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
- Swell
- Southerly 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore.
- Weather
- Mostly sunny.