Who Invented Surfing? An Exploration From Ancient Polynesia to Shang Dynasty China

Surfing has been around for centuries. It is well-known that the ancient Polynesians and Hawaiians were among the first to ever ride the waves, but there are accounts of surfing that go back even further. Some historians point to evidence suggesting that surfing may have occurred in ancient China, as well.

Surfing in Ancient Polynesia

Let's begin with ancient Polynesia. Archaeological evidence supports the notion that surfing originated somewhere in the geographical triangle between the islands of Hawaii, Tahiti and New Zealand.

Early Polynesians were among the original, master ocean navigators, traveling thousands of miles across the Pacific in double-hulled canoes. This allowed them to cultivate an intimate relationship with the sea, making wave-riding a natural fit for them. They called it "wave sliding," the art of connecting oneself to the rhythm of the ocean.

Surfing in Ancient Hawaii

Ancient Polynesians settled in the Hawaiian Islands between approximately 940 and 1200 CE. It is unclear whether these travelers introduced surfing to Hawaii or whether they settled and subsequently began surfing.

The ancient Hawaiians called surfing he'e nalu, and it was part of the islands' daily life and social structure. Both men and women surfed, and it remained this way for generations. Everyone was welcome in the line-up; it was a deeply inclusive practice that was an integral part of the local tradition. Specialized priests called kahuna blessed new surfboards and said prayers in order to bring waves to the coastline.

Even board-building was a spiritual exercise; prayers and fish were offered up in exchange for the trees that were felled to make the giant wooden boards. The shaping process took months, a meticulous process that involved sculpting the wood and then sealing it with oil.

Although it was a generally inclusive spiritual practice, some surf spots were reserved only for Hawaiian royalty, called the ali'i. These spots were considered to be the best in the islands.

Earliest Written Account

The earliest written account of surfing dates to 1769, when Lieutenant James King, a member of Captain James Cook's expedition to the Hawaiian Islands, documented Polynesian people riding waves on wooden boards.

In his account, King observed: "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea."

This account may have documented an ancient art form, but it also marked a tragic turning point in the history of surfing. Within decades of European contact, surfing in Hawaii almost disappeared entirely.

Surfing in Ancient China

In his 2019 book, Children of the Tide, Nik Zanella presented evidence suggesting that surfing may also have had roots in ancient China. Analyzing poems, scriptures, paintings and other historical artifacts, the author was able to trace surfing in China back to the 1200s.

In the book, Zanella describes the moment that sparked his research: “You can imagine my surprise when I walked into the Precious Hall of The Great Hero [the main hall of the Qiongzhu Temple in Kunming, China] to see 30 figures riding a green-blue wave, performing maneuvers and standing on top of mythological animals.

“A few steps further into the corridor and my gaze fell on the eyes of the central figure of the installation: a surfer, in a perfect sideways stance, riding a shoulder-high left-hander on a fish-like board, with a stoked grin on his face. The bas relief was dated 1880, decades before surfing could bridge the gap between Polynesia and the West.

“I concluded that this must have been a totally different beginning. I spoke with the abbott, who knew almost nothing about modern surfing but gave me the Chinese name of the activity:  nong chao er  (弄潮儿), which translates as 'children of the tide.' He suggested I go look for them in Hangzhou, one of the ancient capitals. This was the starting point of my research.”

Birth of Modern Surf Culture

Hawaii is where modern surfing culture took root, and visitors to the islands in the early 1900s became enamored with it. More than anyone else, native Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku is credited with popularizing surfing and bringing it to the global community.

Duke was a powerful Olympic swimmer (he won medals at the Olympics of 1912, 1920 and 1924), and he traveled internationally to give swimming exhibitions. At these exhibitions, he dazzled crowds by demonstrating the Hawaiian art of wave-riding. For a time, he lived in Southern California, where he mentored new surfers, worked as a lifeguard, performed in Hollywood movies and continued to travel abroad to share his love for surfing.

So, Who Invented Surfing?

That is a tricky question, and it's unlikely that any one person can be credited with creating the sport. Surfing emerged from the genius of ancient Polynesian cultures and was nurtured by generations of ancient Hawaiian surfers. Colonialism almost stamped out surfing in Hawaii, but fortunately, it was revived and globalized thanks to Duke Kahanamoku.

On a seemingly unrelated track, surfing also appears to have some roots in ancient China, though at some point along the way it apparently became a forgotten art form.

But the idea of surfing is more about the feeling, anyway. The spirit of those who invented surfing lives on through everyone who paddles out, even if the sport has become somewhat detached from its ancient spiritual origins. The feeling of surfing is universal, and that is why it continues to be such an appealing pastime for generations past, present and future.