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Postcard from Cali – da Bu etc

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Hello Friends,

Grabbed a couple of snaps from the Surfline cams for Malibu and a spot west of Santa Barbara called Refugio to give you an idea of the relative difference in swell energy between the two.

Speaking of energy, the longer period south stuff you’ve been seeing in Sydney seems to have gone away, so I’m thinking it will be noticeably smaller for you today, but not flat, thanks to a metre or so of E-NE windswell.

Tide’s low at 0825, so there might be a slight incoming tide assist across the morning. Should be a sunny and warm (27) day too. Only issue is that as of 0830 wind was already 9-13 kts from the NNE… better get on it!

 

Refugio point, western Santa Barbara County. South swell lines

Weather Situation

A cold front is bringing a southwesterly change to the southern waters and will continue to the central waters on this morning. A second, stronger cold front will bring a strong west to southwesterly change on Thursday. After this winds are expected to turn southerly as a high pressure system moves across from the west.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds
West to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots turning south to southeasterly in the middle of the day then tending northwest to northeasterly in the early afternoon.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the morning.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Thursday 2 October

Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northwesterly 15 to 20 knots turning west to southwesterly 20 to 25 knots during the afternoon and evening. Winds reaching up to 30 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning, then increasing to 2 to 2.5 metres by early evening.
1st Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
2nd Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny morning. The chance of a thunderstorm offshore in the afternoon and evening.

Friday 3 October

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots tending southeast to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots during the day then tending southwesterly during the evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon or evening.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Sunny.

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