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Postcard from Cali – South swell lighting up SoCal

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Hello Friends,

The NE wind is chewing up a metre-ish south swell this morning. Maybe tomorrow morning…

The south swell is still delivering head high plus conditions in southern-most California surf zones, but in Santa Barbara only the very occasional catchable waves are turning up. The shot above was taken at Sandspit, a breakwater created bank in Santa Barbara harbour that usually only lights up when precisely angled winter swell hits it. But the steeply angled south energy was delivering a waist high wave every 20-30 minutes.

 


BoM Forecast issued at 4:10 am EST on Tuesday 30 September 2025.

Weather Situation

Fresh onshore northeasterly winds are forecast today ahead of a series of strong cold fronts that looks set to cross the state from today onwards. The first front will cross the coastal waters later tonight and Wednesday with a brief southwesterly wind change. This will be followed by the second front on Thursday and early Friday bringing a fresh to strong west to southwesterly wind change in its wake. Winds will gradually ease through the weekend as a large high pressure system drifts across the state.

Forecast for Tuesday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Tuesday for Sydney Coast

Winds
North to northeasterly about 10 knots increasing to 15 to 25 knots in the early morning. Winds reaching up to 30 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres around midday.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre around midday.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Wednesday 1 October

Winds
North to northwesterly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore early in the morning. Winds tending west to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots in the early morning then tending northwest to northeasterly in the early afternoon.
Seas
1 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Below 0.5 metres, tending northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Thursday 2 October

Winds
Northwesterly 15 to 20 knots turning westerly 20 to 30 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the afternoon or evening.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

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