Swell fading, wind coming
Hello Friends,
The capering dogs were captured from a train window as they were running along a beach just south of Rincon at dusk yesterday. No surf to speak of – as you can see.
Although it’s too dark in Sydney as I write this to consult the cams, I see that the swell has faded since yesterday and as of 0430 was a metre from the SSE at 13 seconds. Wind was 10-15 kts NW and should still be at about that intensity and from that direction by first light. So, there might be the odd grovel to be had in a north corner. Tide’s pretty low at 0515, so with luck the aforesaid north corners may benefit from the swing to incoming after that.
Wind’s due to swing SE by around midday, so hit it early or make other plans. This morning’s swell models don’t look too exciting for tomorrow, but after that the projections see prospects for modest but surfable waves through to the weekend.
Meanwhile, your correspondent has no prospect of surfing any of his fave Santa Barbara points. Locations south of here are expecting to get a little S-SSW swell energy into the waist plus range at Ventura and bit bigger again in Orange and San Diego counties.
Have a great Sunday!
Weather Situation
A trough crossing the state is forecast to bring a southerly wind change along the coast today. Winds will turn to fresh onshore northeasterly early next week ahead of a series of cold fronts that looks set to cross the coastal waters mid to late next week, with west to southwesterly wind change in its wake.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
- Winds
- West to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots shifting southeasterly 15 to 20 knots in the early afternoon.
- Seas
- Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
- 1st Swell
- Southerly around 1 metre.
- 2nd Swell
- Northeasterly around 1 metre.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy.
Monday 29 September
- Winds
- Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots turning northeasterly in the evening.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
- 1st Swell
- Southerly around 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
- 2nd Swell
- Northeast to southeasterly around 1 metre.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers.
Tuesday 30 September
- Winds
- North to northeasterly 15 to 25 knots increasing to 20 to 30 knots during the evening.
- Seas
- Around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the afternoon.
- Swell
- Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the afternoon or evening.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy.