Sunny and the odd set to be had
Hello Friends,
As of 0800 the swell out at sea was 1.2 metres at 10 seconds and coming from the SE. Wind was 9-13 kts from the WNW and the tide was coming into the 1.5 metre high at 1020. There’s a 40% chance of a shower at some point, but when I grabbed the snaps the skies were mostly clear.
The surf situation at Dee Why was looking marginal, but not without hope. Every now and then a set arrives at the point to deliver something in the waist high range. For some reason, possibly the approaching high tide, it looked to be less consistent along the beach. Given the settings, I’d expect the better exposures to be mostly waist high this morning with maybe the odd chest high wave face to keep it interesting.
This morning’s models are showing energy levels remaining similar to today’s offerings through to around next Monday. By Sunday we could see a small but noticeable improvement. Then overnight Monday into Tuesday, the swell’s currently expected to ramp up into the 2.5 metre range. If the GFS model has it right, the swell builds into the 3+ metre range on Wednesday – and stays sizeable into Friday. Weather and wind don’t look red-hot for Wednesday on the GFS, but Thursday and Friday could be special… obviously, being weather, this could all change by the time we get there.
A little head’s up. I’ve published the still images from last week’s epic session at Surfrider Gardens on RealSurfPhotos.com. And today I’m expecting to upload a compilation of all the video clips I shot on the day, so maybe check back this afternoon-evening…
Go well!
Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the southwestern Tasman Sea extends a ridge across the state while a trough lies offshore. These systems will recede further offshore as a cold front enters the state’s south today. The front will slip to the south while its associated trough will brush the coast on Wednesday and Thursday. Then, winds will turn northerly on Friday ahead of the second, more significant cold front that looks set to cross the coastal waters on Saturday. The front will bring fresh to strong and gusty southwesterly wind change in its wake.
Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
- Winds
- South to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots becoming south to southeasterly about 10 knots in the early afternoon.
- Seas
- Below 1 metre.
- Swell
- Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, tending southwesterly 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon, then tending southerly 1.5 metres by early evening.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers.
Wednesday 13 August
- Winds
- West to southwesterly about 10 knots tending southerly 10 to 15 knots in the late afternoon.
- Seas
- Below 1 metre.
- Swell
- Southeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres, tending southerly below 1 metre by early evening.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Thursday 14 August
- Winds
- Southerly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to about 10 knots during the evening.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the evening.
- Swell
- Southerly around 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the morning.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers.