THE EMERALD ISLE: LEON JAMAER IN IRELAND
THE EMERALD ISLE: LEON JAMAER IN IRELAND
THE EMERALD ISLE: LEON JAMAER IN IRELAND
Leon Jamaer escapes everyday life as he embarks on an adventure from Schipol’s airport floor to Magheroarty’s beautiful shores all in the name of chasing wind and waves.
Words: Leon Jamaer // Photos: Bulgenslag
DAY 1 – A SHAKY START
Due to yet another strike, there were no more flights available in or out of Germany, so mine and Friedel’s spontaneous trip to Ireland was almost a non-starter. Fortunately though, we were able to rebook our flights to the Netherlands for free, so the opportunity to chase the forecast was still alive.
The forecast in question promised strong south westerly winds, two consecutive swells and mild temperatures accompanied by clear skies for the northwest of Ireland. Friedel and I had no major trips planned, and we were both tired of the 4ºC air temperatures, and the perpetually grey North or Baltic Sea waves. The prospect of long-period groundswells, clean reef waves, and delicious dark beer was reason enough to take a short-term vacation, pack up the camera and windsurfing gear, and embark on what is already a somewhat strenuous journey.
Around midnight, we crossed the Dutch border, and spent the evening sleeping on the bare airport floor at Schiphol, which I can promise you is not very comfortable. After almost two hours, I woke up rather cold, but luckily we were able to get our hands on a warm cup of coffee before setting off again. Our travel was on a tight schedule; once we’d landed in Dublin, we would pick up and load the rental car, before driving across Ireland – possibly with a quick stop at a drive-through – until we reached Magheroarty, in the far northwest of Ireland.
By the time we arrived in Magheroarty, only two hours of daylight remained, so we wasted as little time as possible and headed straight for the water. We were greeted by a clean swell, which was being groomed by the strong side-offshore wind. However, the conditions were anywhere between perfect to extremely challenging as the waves were difficult to read. Unfortunately, my sail was a bit too big and somehow I’d managed to mess up the trim of my board, so it wasn’t the best start. In spite of this, I still managed to enjoy some beautiful moments when I managed to time hitting the lip correctly to launch into an aerial. However, there was also a heavy price to pay when you mistimed it, which resulted in plenty of wipe outs too. I can still remember one particular crash where the wave pushed my board towards the trough of the wave and my body went in the opposite direction – which is usually not a good position as it puts massive strain on your joints and ligaments. I briefly found myself wondering when the next flight to Germany was, but when I made it back to the beach and could walk somewhat normally, I was reassured that I hadn’t done any serious damage, phew. This moment also made me think about the windsurf photographer, Pierre Bouras, who always says, “Travel day, is travel day – no action.”, but this time round, we simply didn’t have time for travel days.
DAY 2 – POWERED BY FULL IRISH BREAKFASTS
Two full Irish breakfasts were the order of the day at our bed and breakfast – the Loch Altan – which is one of the few accommodations that are open during the winter, while they even offer a discount to windsurfers.
We savour the bacon, sausage, beans, and eggs, knowing a long, strenuous day outdoors lies ahead. As unbalanced as Irish cuisine may be, all the fats and calories do get you through the day, so credit where credit’s due, as that’s exactly what we need, plus ibuprofen, because it’s already looking like 4.2m weather. Friedel, who last set foot on a plane ten years ago, left his windsurfing gear at home on this trip to focus entirely on photography and filming. Unfortunately though, the promise of clear skies definitely isn’t correct for today, as the whole day is scuppered by heavy driving rain, not exactly ideal for photography or filming. So, while I manage to enjoy a fun session, albeit with a taped up foot, Friedel struggles with the adverse conditions on the land. His camera gear starts to malfunction in the incessant rain meaning hardly any of the shots work out the way Friedel intended. Things then only go from bad to worse as when we return to our accommodation our heater breaks down. We try and lift our spirits by reviewing the rain sodden footage, but sombre mood only thickens.
DAY 3 – THINGS ARE LOOKING UP
Finally, after two days of dismal and dreary weather, the sun makes a welcome appearance, while there’s still wind and a new, significantly larger groundswell is expected. Timo Mullen, the original diehard Irish windsurfer messages me: “Magheroarty will be epic, you’ll love it!”, which sets my pulse racing. Full of anticipation we arrive early and I rig immediately, and then impatiently wait for the wind to pick up and the new swell lines to start to appear on the horizon. In the meantime, we enjoy soaking up a few rays of rare sunlight that occasionally break through the clouds. Having arrived by ourselves, that’s not the case anymore as nearly a dozen Irish and British sailors arrive, all having been lured by the same promising forecast for the north of Ireland. Amongst them are ex World Cup sailor, Phil Horrocks, and Dane, Lars Petersen, who regularly makes the journey from Klitmøller to Ireland, which has become almost a second home for him. Magheroarty is to the Irish, what Klitmøller is to us North Germans. You can usually find sailable conditions here, as long as the wind is anywhere from SSW to WNW – as you can either sail on the reef situated to the left of the pier, or in the long sandy bay, which brings an air of safety and security, which makes it a particularly popular spot.
DAY 4 – CATCH-22
I’ve long struggled with the decision of staying here or heading towards Sligo, where the rain clouds are less likely to remain in the mountains, while other spots, not too far away, offer great potential as well. We can no longer stand the meat-heavy Irish breakfast at the B&B, and everything in me longs for a change.
However, on the other hand, I also desperately want to experience Magheroarty when it’s properly firing on all cylinders. I’ve already experienced it once during the 2019 Red Bull Storm Chase, but back then it was simply too windy for down-the-line wave riding. As I head out onto the water, it’s still relatively gloomy, but we’ve more than come to terms with the Irish weather by now, even if the same can’t be for Friedel’s cameras. They hate the moisture, but modern cameras still handle poor lighting conditions much better these days, and Friedel adjusts the ISO, aperture and shutter speed etc, with the aim of being able to capture each raindrop in full sharpness.
DAY 5 – GRATITUDE
On our last day, there’s only time for a short morning session before we have to head back to the airport. Unfortunately, contrary to the forecast, there’s hardly any wind, and the waves are still very unsettled and less organised than I had hoped for. With large gear, I still catch a few decent waves, but the patchy wind and strong current underscore the hungover mood.
On the drive to the airport, I mainly have a feeling of gratitude. I’m grateful for the opportunity to escape everyday life with Friedel, even if only for a few days, and explore the beautiful Irish coastline together. I’m grateful to share the stoke after a session with other windsurfers. I’m grateful that my foot and body survived the ordeal unscathed. I’m grateful to be part of this sometimes absurd, but uniquely fantastic sport, and to be supported by sponsors who allow me to dance in the waves with the gear and document it all in photos for the magazines. Lastly, I’m grateful for the luck of the Irish that accompanied us at least partially on this trip.
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