Sunny and little lines too

Hello Friends,

The helicopters are still buzzing around above the fireground near Cromer Heights this morning. I imagine a number of those engaged in mopping up wish they could be down at the beach instead where the folks they’re protecting are catching a few little waves on a benign and sunny Sunday morning.

As of 0830, the wind was NNW at 5-8 kts and out at sea, the MHL buoy was picking up 1.3 metres of 15-second (!) straight south swell. This was producing waist plus sets at the Dee Why end of the beach. I haven’t seen the Longy end yet, but I won’t be surprised if it’s into the shoulder plus range on sets. South exposures will be showing, but the long period will mean mainly shutting down conditions for any place without reefs (ie, most stretches).

Outlook is for the swell to fade overnight and to be into the waist-high range at south exposures for tomorrow. The Bureau says swell will kick up a bit on Tuesday with helpful SW wind for the morning session. Beyond that, the swell models show another 2-3m south pulse filling in Thursday afternoon, but it looks like being rainy and blowing southerly until maybe Friday morning…

If you’re around Freshwater this afternoon, stop by the park at 4 pm and say hi. I’ll be there with my Surfrider friends for a lightning beach clean from 4-5 pm to be followed shortly thereafter by celebratory ales at the Harbord Hotel. We’ll have buckets for you if you want to get involved. Bring a pair of gloves and closed footwear!

(below) Earlier today from the crow’s nest…

Yesterday afternoon’s fire was only a couple of km from RealSurf HQ, so I had a box seat to watch the firefighters saving lots of us from disaster. Fantastic work and grateful thanks from all of us in the area!