Croatia is a yacht charter destination that is chock-full of surprises

Toby Hodges and family find plenty of surprises as they charter a new Sunsail model from the famed old Croatian city of DubrovnIk

Why charter? To have a deserved break afloat; to sail somewhere different; to try before you buy, especially if deciding between monohull and multihull; to see if it’s something your crew enjoys before embarking on longer-term cruising. Or all of the above.

For us, the plan seemed clear. After a decade of UK summers (an oxymoron!), where our family of four enjoys sailing dinghies and weekending our vintage micro-cruiser, it was time for some more reliable, sunny cruising. And the chance to try a modern production monohull presented an ideal opportunity for our daughters (9 and 13) to progress into yacht sailing.

Dubrovnik has become a Mediterranean cruising mecca. Not only is the ‘pearl of the Adriatic’ a UNESCO world heritage site to set sail from, with an old town made extra popular by Game of Thrones, but the islands strewn between here and Split offer some of the most enchanting, manageable cruising.

But I’d previously been put off the idea of chartering during summer school holidays, considering it too hot, expensive and, most of all, crowded. Thankfully, none of these preconceptions played out. In fact, from arriving in late July at Sunsail’s Dubrovnik base onwards, everything was charming. I would add surprisingly so – however there were some surprises in store.

Due to work commitments, we missed the first two days, compressing our week’s charter, but with the islands all lying to the north-west, routing decisions are easy at least – if the wind co-operates!

Full of surprises

I was genuinely impressed with the quality of ACI Marina, the Sunsail base, its staff and equipment. Were you stormbound you could happily while away a few days here – it’s easy to get into the old town, while quiet and relaxing with a superb pool and restaurant (Zephyrus YC), a well-stocked mini supermarket and good on-site facilities.

Indeed, despite normally itching to get straight off to a nice anchorage, we stayed put… our only night in a marina (and it was free!). It was a Monday so it was quiet, a strong wind was forecast that night and we had a small tech issue so decided to relax, victual, and enjoy the facilities.

The first real surprise came on boarding. I know the Dufour 41 having tested it the year before, so while the new voluminous boat was expected, the level of equipment it included was eye-opening. It was packed with mod cons I hadn’t even considered for a 40-footer, including aircon, genset, watermaker, freezer, microwave, electric toilets…

Article continues below…

For us the electric outboard on the Highfield RIB was the biggest hit, eliminating smells and noise and ideal for the kids to up their helming confidence. Knowing most Sunsail yachts are in ownership programmes, I wondered how such a high standard spec level is decided and works out financially, so, at the end of the charter, spoke with specialist Julian Adams – see panel, page 61.

Most likely we have all experienced some tired charter boats before, and it felt luxurious to step aboard a shiny new model. Of course, while a luxury to have, all these items ramp up the complexity and hog most stowage space. Our rep acknowledged this and even suggested using one of the three heads to stow the fenders.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t get a chart briefing because the specialist was off on an emergency – the downside of not arriving on the usual handover day. But the briefing videos are good and base manager Keith Harvey is very thorough with his drone footage of each area and zones of caution.

I’m obviously old school because I still crave paper, including charts, cruising guides, suggested itineraries etc. However, it’s now all set up to be digital only.

That feeling of leaving the marina, motoring out of the channel and first hoisting sails is priceless. Šunj on Lopud is the perfect easy first/last hop, little more than an hour from the bustling city, and offers stunning clear water to laze and swim in, an amuse bouche of what was to come.

Still not knowing how busy future destinations would be, I phoned ahead to the Lukas Taverna at Kobaš in the Ston channel, and was met with a reassuring ‘no problem’. We’d had some local recommendations from a Yachting World reader, but the Sunsail team is also responsive and helpful with advice on WhatsApp.

While my fellow charterers were quiet that week, I later saw just how well some used it for live recommendations and any tech queries. Likewise, Harvey’s daily weather briefings are first class.

Sailing to shellfish

Sailing up the channel between Lopud and Šipan (Eliphati) islands and the mainland brought the second surprise: just how quickly and violently the conditions can change here. Many will know the mountainous backdrop plays a big part in the local weather and cruising here, particularly thunderstorm activity. And the wind can change very quickly too. In this case we were sailing in 7 knots when a 20-knot wind band hit with a 45° change in its direction.

This led directly to the next surprise: we were not to get the sailing experience I’d enjoyed on the test boat the year before, sorry kids. All that gear obviously comes at a cost: weight. Then factor in white sails only, the drag of a fixed three-blade prop and towing a RIB dinghy and pointing and headway ability obviously diminish.

That said my ‘first mate’, my eldest daughter, proved an effective hand, and the electric winches and stackpack made sailing a doddle. Also, at 40ft, the loads are all relatively light, so it’s easy enough to pull halyards by hand and quickly unfurl/furl sails for that impulsive 10-minute spell of sailing.

KobaŠ is a delightful cove with a couple of restaurants, including Lukas, which belongs to ‘no problem’ Nicolas’ family. They gave us a friendly welcome and helped us dock stern-to, with 50cm of clear water below our rudder. Father told stories to guests over a glass or two, while mother knocked up some memorable seafood. We’d heard the oysters in these waters are meant to be some of the best in the world and they didn’t disappoint. Equally the calamari and (very) local chardonnay were excellent (the secret is in the stubborn vines which grow on rock faces apparently). All worth the inflated prices you pay on the islands (€230 for four).

It was on discovering our first truly idyllic and almost deserted anchorage the following morning that we began to realise just how special these waters are. You go giddy with excitement, juggling between trying to capture it on camera and continually wanting to plunge into the intoxicating palette of blues. In fact, the rest of our voyage centred on trying to find the most beautiful waters to anchor and swim in. The choice is spellbinding.

Lazy pace

With the light breeze still from the north-west (on the nose), any progress along the Mljet coast needed to be done under power. But these longer passages, particularly motorsailing in calm seas, were wonderfully relaxing.

It provided proper family time, with occasional cool-offs and tow-alongs, all while skirting the coastline and poking our noses into any inlets that looked inviting.

Mljet is 90% vegetation, and full of these enticing pitstops, particularly around the protected marine national park at the northern end.

Winding through the delightful channels en route to its Polače heart, we passed numerous superyachts parked stern-to their preferred rocks in some of the choicest spots, so we were then thrilled to find a quiet corner with a good stake to tie a stern line to in the protected anchorage opposite the town.

Polače has plenty of restaurants, a dinghy dock and useful small shops. Bike and e-bike rental stores abound as tourists typically cycle from here to the salt lakes (too hot for us, thanks).

Those who moor at the many restaurant quays and eat there avoid the €120 park fee, but after getting fresh supplies via dinghy we were too content with our anchorage spot and ate aboard that night. This helped confirm that the Dufour’s transom dinette/grill setup is a prime feature. Barbecuing in boardshorts, diving in to cool off, and finishing with an aft platform shower is the life!

Around the headland is Pomena where we stumbled upon the most stunning small shoal by an islet, a patch of white sand large enough to precisely drop the pick into with just enough scope during a calm daytime. It was the most inviting water I’ve seen, our tiny slice of paradise.

From here you have to decide whether to stay local, as in Mljet and the PeljeŠac peninsula, or strike out for Korčula, with its postcard old town, or the more remote Lastovo, a 20-mile sail west. We only had two more nights, but the mystique of Lastovo beckoned.

After a long afternoon crossing in a dying breeze, we buzzed the north part of the island to glimpse Lastovo town nestled high in the hills, danced to cockpit tunes as we took in the western end before reaching Pasadur in time for sundowners. The anchorages and submarine pen area looked busy so we settled for a buoy (€40 on top of the three-day €40 national park fee), which brought peace of mind and another stunning swimming location.

A biodiversity treasure with some of the richest botanical areas in the Med, Lastovo was declared a nature park in 2006.

Yes, in hindsight, it was a long way to go on our timeframe (and further to go back into the weather), but to see the kids be water rats until after dark, then lie with them on the foredeck stargazing at what is said to be the second darkest night sky in Europe, forged an enduring memory.

Weighing it up

Normally when handing the boat back the next day it makes sense to get to an easy radius from the base. Which was our intention, honest. But after a long morning of beating into an unforecast wind and swell, it was too tempting not to divert back to our paradisiacal patch off Pomena, which proved so relaxing we ended up staying that night. After all the forecast was settled now wasn’t it?!
Scoping out the various restaurants and watching other visiting yachts claim their spots (a fun pastime) we settled on the friendly fish restaurant Konoba Herc opposite, only nudging in there after our final sunset swim.

From the most tranquil evening I woke to mayhem at 2am as a huge thunderstorm hit. Having checked all lines and fenders and got thoroughly drenched I fretted about how to get back to Dubrovnik if the storm continued. Despite a disconcerting night and tentative departure, the skies and seas settled almost instantly by morning, leaving mirror calm conditions for the 40-mile return, albeit under the iron headsail (with more idyllic swim stops).

The re-fuelling and handover was slick, with excellent instructions. And because we’d elected to stay on in Dubrovnik for an extra couple of days, there was no panic to get to the airport. Instead, a chauffeured transit awaited to take us on to more relaxation – thank you Sunsail.

So again, why charter? It’s 3°C and mizzle as I write this, the days barely bothering to get light. However, I’m picturing that water, the laughs, the lifelong memories. A sailing holiday afloat together can ensure quality family time and is the reason many crave repeats as their children age.

I know we do.

Charter cruising tips

If possible allow time before or after. Get the cheaper flights. Decompress. We stayed between the airport and marina for a long weekend from where it was a €20 taxi into the old town or back to the airport.

Don’t overstretch yourself. On a digital chart it all seems manageable, but a 5- to 7-hour sail is a long slog under power! I’m my own worst enemy, wanting to see every last inlet. But that can limit time exploring ashore.

If sailing is a priority, you may need to limit your cruising radius. Instead of trying to sail from A to B, consider just going for pleasure sails at the optimum angles and in the best breezes.

Marinas in Croatia are seriously expensive (around €75-150 a night)! With the plethora of stunning anchorages and restaurant docks, they can be avoided unless weather-bound or sight-seeing certain towns.

If you enjoyed this….

Yachting World is the world’s leading magazine for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailors. Every month we have inspirational adventures and practical features to help you realise your sailing dreams.

Build your knowledge with a subscription delivered to your door. See our latest offers and save at least 30% off the cover price.

The post Croatia is a yacht charter destination that is chock-full of surprises appeared first on Yachting World.