DIY Bike Tire Chains for Under $15

Update Note: This guide originated in 2007 as a budget alternative to expensive studded tires. The basic concept remains valid, but winter cycling technology evolved significantly. We’ve updated it with modern context, safety warnings, and honest comparison to current alternatives.

The Winter Traction Problem

Riding in snow and ice requires traction beyond what standard tires provide. You have three options: studded tires ($80-180 per pair), commercial tire chains ($60-100), or DIY solutions using hardware store parts.

This guide covers the DIY approach. Total cost runs around $15-20 for materials. Build time takes 1-2 hours depending on your mechanical skills.

Before you start, understand the limitations. Homemade tire chains work for specific conditions and bike setups. They’re not universal solutions and they create complications that commercial products don’t.

What You Actually Need

Materials:

• 15 feet of lightweight chain (3/16 inch or smaller links): $7-10
• 15 feet of 1/16 inch uncoated cable (picture frame wire): $3-4
• 3 packs of 1/16 inch cable ferrules (wire crimp connectors): $1-2 per pack
• Heavy-duty zip ties (at least 20): $3-5

Total material cost: $15-25 depending on chain type and zip tie quality.

Tools required:

• Needle nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Wire strippers or utility knife
• Cable crimping tool (or hammer and hard surface)
• Tire levers (optional but helpful)

Critical Compatibility Warning

This design only works reliably with disc brakes. The chains wrap around the tire and will interfere with rim brake pads.

If you have rim brakes, you need a different approach (covered later) or you should buy studded tires instead. Don’t attempt this standard design with rim brakes. You’ll either have no rear braking or you’ll damage the chains and brake pads.

Step-by-Step Construction

1. Deflate the tire completely

Let all air out. The tire needs to compress so you can fit chains tightly. Partially inflated tires result in loose chains that shift during riding.

2. Cut chain into segments

Divide your chain into pieces of 6 links each. You’ll need approximately 12-15 segments per tire depending on tire diameter. 26-inch mountain bike tires use about 12 segments. 29-inch tires need 14-15 segments.

Count carefully. Too few segments leave gaps where you’ll lose traction. Too many segments waste material and add unnecessary weight.

3. Position first chain segment

Place one 6-link segment across the tire tread perpendicular to the tire rotation. The chain should lay flat across the tread surface, not angled.

Secure both ends with a zip tie pulled tight around the tire. Position the zip tie head on the sidewall, not the tread, so it doesn’t contact the ground.

4. Space remaining segments evenly

Work around the tire placing additional chain segments at equal intervals. For 12 segments on a 26-inch tire, space them roughly 2 inches apart measured along the tread surface.

Secure each segment with zip ties on both sidewalls. Tighten firmly but don’t overtighten to the point of deforming the tire bead.

5. Install retention cables

Thread the cable through one end link of each chain segment. Work around the entire tire, weaving the cable through every segment’s end link.

When you complete the circle, pull the cable taut and secure it with a cable ferrule. Use the crimping tool or hammer the ferrule flat to lock the cable ends together.

Repeat for the other side of the tire, threading cable through the opposite end links.

The cables prevent chain segments from shifting laterally across the tire surface. Without them, chains migrate toward the sidewalls and become ineffective.

6. Tension adjustment

This step determines whether your chains work or create problems. The cables need significant tension to hold chains in position but not so much that they distort the tire shape.

Wrap the cable around the wire cutters for leverage and pull firmly while crimping the ferrule. The goal is taut cables that don’t sag but also don’t deform the tire profile when inflated.

7. Reinflation and testing

Inflate the tire to normal pressure. As the tire expands, it will push against the chains and cables. This is expected.

Spin the wheel slowly and watch for chain segments that shift or cables that look loose. Fix any problems before riding.

The chains should sit slightly recessed into the tire surface when inflated, not protruding significantly. If chains stick out more than 2-3mm, you’ve either used too-large chain or insufficient cable tension.

The Rim Brake Alternative Design

If you must use rim brakes (or prefer a design that works with them), the construction differs significantly.

Instead of individual chain segments held by lateral cables, you create a continuous chain mesh that wraps around the tire but stays clear of the rim braking surface.

Measure the tire circumference at a point below the brake pads (usually 1-2 inches down the sidewall from the rim). Cut two pieces of chain to this length.

Lay these two long chains parallel on the floor, spaced about as wide as your tire tread. Connect them with short chain segments (6-8 links) every 2-3 inches, creating a ladder pattern.

Connect the ends of the long chains to form two circles. The result looks like a chain net with the long chains running around the tire and the short segments crossing the tread.

This design keeps the continuous chains below the brake surface while still providing traction across the tread. It’s more labor-intensive to build and harder to install/remove, but it works with rim brakes.

Real-World Performance and Limitations

Homemade tire chains provide legitimate traction improvement in specific conditions:

Packed snow: Chains bite through the packed surface to whatever’s underneath. Significant improvement over standard tires.

Ice (limited): Chains help on rough ice or snow-covered ice. On smooth, bare ice, chains slip almost as badly as rubber. You need metal studs for reliable ice traction.

Crusty snow: The kind of snow that forms a hard crust over softer snow below. Chains break through the crust. Standard tires just slide on top.

Slush: Chains cut through to the pavement below. Better than tires alone, though not dramatically so.

Chains don’t help much with:

Deep, soft snow: You need tire volume and width, not traction devices. Wider tires at low pressure work better than chains.

Smooth ice: Only metal studs embedded in rubber provide reliable ice grip. Chains skip and slide.

Mixed conditions: Pavement to snow transitions create handling inconsistencies. The chains bite suddenly when you hit snow patches, which can be unsettling.

Durability and Maintenance Reality

Homemade chains aren’t permanent installations. Expect the following maintenance issues:

Cable wear: The cable threading through chain links experiences friction and will eventually fray. Inspect before each ride and replace when you see broken strands.

Zip tie failure: UV exposure, temperature cycling, and mechanical stress break zip ties. Carry spares and expect to replace them periodically.

Chain link bending: Lightweight chain will bend or break under stress, especially if you hit obstacles or ride aggressively. Heavier chain resists this but adds weight.

Tire damage risk: The cables and chain segments can chafe the tire sidewalls over time. Remove chains when not needed to extend tire life.

Commercial chains address these issues with purpose-built materials and mounting systems. The DIY approach accepts higher maintenance in exchange for lower cost.

Comparison to Studded Tires

The comment thread on the original article sparked debate about whether DIY chains make sense versus buying studded tires. Here’s the honest comparison:

Cost: DIY chains cost $15-20. Studded tires cost $80-180 per pair. If budget is tight, chains win.

Performance: Studded tires outperform chains on ice significantly. On snow, the difference is smaller. For pure ice riding, studs are worth the investment.

Installation: Chains install in 1-2 hours but require removal when not needed. Studded tires install like regular tires and stay on all winter.

Durability: Quality studded tires last 2-4 winter seasons. DIY chains might last one season with maintenance or might fail in a few rides.

Convenience: Tires are ready to ride. Chains require pre-ride inspection and post-ride removal if you park outside.

Versatility: Studded tires work for commuting and recreation. Chains are primarily recreational due to maintenance requirements.

The math: if you ride regularly all winter and can afford studded tires, buy them. If you ride occasionally in snow or want to experiment cheaply, DIY chains make sense.

Safety Considerations You Can’t Ignore

Several commenters raised legitimate safety concerns about homemade chains. Address these before riding:

Catastrophic failure: If a cable breaks or chain segment comes loose while riding, it can jam in the fork or frame. This causes instant crashes. Inspect thoroughly before each ride and during long rides.

Brake incompatibility: Chains that contact rim brakes eliminate braking entirely. This isn’t a minor inconvenience. It’s dangerous. Verify clearance absolutely before riding in traffic.

Handling changes: Chains alter bike handling characteristics. Practice in safe areas before riding in traffic or on technical terrain. The traction increase can cause unexpected behavior in turns.

Tube damage: Sharp chain edges can puncture tubes if installation is poor. Check for any chain contact with the tube before inflating.

Spoke interference: On some wheels, chains can contact spokes. This destroys wheels quickly. Verify clearance on both sides before riding.

These aren’t theoretical risks. They’re real failure modes that cause crashes. The original DIY spirit is admirable, but acknowledge the engineering compromises you’re accepting.

When DIY Chains Actually Make Sense

This project works for specific use cases:

Budget experimentation: You want to try winter riding without major investment. Chains let you test whether you’ll actually ride in snow before buying expensive tires.

Occasional snow rides: You ride a few times per winter when conditions look fun. Chains provide adequate traction without the expense and storage hassle of a second wheelset.

Emergency traction: You got caught out in unexpected snow and need to get home. Chains are better than nothing.

Project satisfaction: You enjoy building things and accept the maintenance and performance tradeoffs for the satisfaction of DIY.

DIY chains don’t make sense for:

Regular winter commuting: The maintenance requirements and reliability concerns don’t align with daily transportation dependency.

Serious ice riding: Studs provide dramatically better ice performance. Chains are marginal on ice.

High-performance riding: Racing, aggressive trail riding, or high-speed descents require predictable traction that homemade chains can’t deliver reliably.

Bikes you can’t afford to crash: If you’re riding an expensive bike or in dangerous conditions, the failure risk of homemade chains outweighs the cost savings.

Modern Alternatives Worth Considering

The winter traction market evolved since 2007. Several options now exist between DIY chains and premium studded tires:

Budget studded tires: $40-60 per tire. Not as durable as premium studs but adequate for recreational winter riding.

Tire studs kits: $20-30. You install individual studs into your existing tires. More work than buying studded tires but cheaper and you can stud old tires before replacing them.

Commercial lightweight chains: $40-60 per wheel. Purpose-built for bikes with proper mounting systems. More reliable than DIY but still require installation/removal.

Wide, low-pressure tires: On soft snow, running 2.4-inch or wider tires at 10-15 psi provides surprising traction without any traction devices. Doesn’t work on ice but excellent in snow.

Evaluate these against DIY chains honestly. The performance and reliability differences might justify the extra cost depending on how much you’ll ride.

Bottom Line on DIY Tire Chains

This project works if you understand its limitations and apply it appropriately. The chains provide real traction improvement in snow for minimal cost. The build process is straightforward and uses readily available materials.

But homemade chains aren’t equivalent to commercial products. They require more maintenance, pose higher failure risks, and don’t perform as well on ice as studded tires.

Build them if you want a cheap winter traction experiment or occasional-use solution. Don’t build them if you need reliable daily winter transportation or ride in conditions where traction failure means serious consequences.

The original 2007 guide showed resourcefulness and DIY spirit. Those remain admirable. Just balance that spirit with honest assessment of when the right answer is buying proper equipment instead of improvising.

Winter riding is fantastic when you have adequate traction. These chains can provide that for specific riders and conditions. Just know which rider and which conditions you are before you start cutting chain.

FAQs DIY bike tire chains

Question: Do DIY bike tire chains work as well as studded tires?

Short answer: No, homemade chains work adequately in packed snow but perform significantly worse than studded tires on ice.

Expanded answer: DIY chains provide noticeable traction improvement over standard tires in packed or crusty snow conditions. However, studded tires outperform chains dramatically on ice due to metal studs that penetrate the ice surface. Chains skip and slide on smooth ice almost as badly as rubber. On mixed snow/ice conditions, studs maintain consistent traction while chains provide unpredictable grip.

For pure snow riding, the performance gap is smaller. For ice or mixed conditions, studded tires justify their higher cost through superior safety and control. If your winter riding includes any ice, invest in studs. If you only ride occasional packed snow, chains work adequately.

Question: Can you use DIY tire chains with rim brakes?

Short answer: Not with the standard design; you need a modified approach that keeps chains below the brake surface or use disc brakes only.

Expanded answer: The basic DIY chain design wraps around the tire and will interfere with rim brake pads, eliminating braking capability. This is dangerous. For rim brakes, you need a modified ladder-pattern design where continuous chains run around the tire below the braking surface, connected by cross-chains over the tread.

This design is more complex to build and harder to install/remove. Most builders recommend only attempting DIY chains if you have disc brakes. If you have rim brakes and need winter traction, buying studded tires makes more sense than building compatible chains.

Question: How long do homemade bike tire chains last?

Short answer: Expect one winter season with regular maintenance, though failure can occur sooner depending on riding conditions and build quality.

Expanded answer: Homemade chains experience multiple failure modes that limit lifespan. Cable fraying from friction typically appears after 10-20 hours of riding and requires replacement. Zip ties fail from UV exposure and temperature cycling, needing periodic replacement throughout the season. Lightweight chain links bend or break under stress, especially on rough terrain.

The chains may last an entire winter if you inspect regularly and replace worn components, but catastrophic failure can occur with little warning. Commercial chains and studded tires last multiple seasons because they use purpose-designed materials. The DIY cost savings come with higher maintenance requirements and shorter lifespan.

Question: What size chain should I use for bike tire chains?

Short answer: Use 3/16 inch or smaller lightweight chain; larger chain adds unnecessary weight and doesn’t improve traction significantly.

Expanded answer: Chain size balances traction against weight and complexity. Lightweight 3/16 inch or 1/8 inch chain provides adequate bite into snow without excessive weight. Heavier chain (1/4 inch+) adds durability but the weight penalty outweighs benefits for bicycle applications. The chain links should be small enough to lay relatively flat on the tire tread without protruding excessively when inflated.

Avoid heavy logging chain or industrial chain designed for trucks. Hardware store “passing link” chain or light-duty decorative chain works well. The specific size matters less than ensuring the chain is lightweight, flexible enough to conform to the tire, and has links sized to fit your cable diameter.

Question: Do you remove bike tire chains when riding on pavement?

Short answer: Yes, chains should be removed when transitioning back to dry pavement to prevent accelerated wear and reduce noise.

Expanded answer: Riding chains on dry pavement causes rapid wear to both the chains and the road surface, creates excessive noise, and wastes energy through increased rolling resistance. The chains also alter handling characteristics unpredictably on pavement compared to snow. Remove chains when your route transitions back to cleared roads.

This removal requirement is one of the main inconveniences of DIY chains compared to studded tires, which can ride on any surface without damage. If your commute involves significant pavement sections, the constant installation/removal makes chains impractical for daily use. They work best for recreational rides that remain on snowy trails or roads throughout.

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