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Peter Rhodes on Arnhem, snow-cycling and plenty of snouts in the trough

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This week marks the 80th anniversary of the ill-starred battle of Arnhem in northern Holland. In 1984, I was there for the 40th. Like so many battlefield pilgrimages with old soldiers, it was a blend of goodwill, sadness and humour, punctuated with unexpected moments of intense poignancy and grotesque horror.

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