1992 Ford E350 Cutaway RF Crank NO START
1992 Ford E350 cutaway RV with 7.5 Liter 460 CID cubic Inch displacement. and about 74,000 miles.
Follow UP for Crank NO Start. After several months I have isolated the problem. Background Can't say enought about COACH NET and their excellent customer service for returning my12,000 lb Champion Chase Commander to our home in Lavonia, GA.
OK here is my problem.... I finally determined that there is either a broken wire or corrosion of the female socket into which the fuel pump relay plugs.
(I HOPE THE FORD ENGINEER..... that decided that best location for the fuse/relay box under the hood would be next to the battery shelf attached to the interior wheel well on the driver side and just below the master cylinder below the two brake hydraulic steel lines that have 3 inch circular windings. HAS TO SPEND ETERNITY TRYING TO GET HIS ZIPPER DOWN TO KEEP FROM PISSING ON HIM/HER-SELF.) I ACTUALLY REMOVED THE FUSE/RELAY BOX FROM A SIMILAR JUNK VAN TO SEE HOW THE HARNESS FEMALE SPADE TERMINALS WERE INSERTED IN THE BOX FROM THE BOTTOM.
I am about to begin the deep dive into this project to try and access the harness without breaking more wires in order to soulder new terminals on the fuel pump relay harness wires. If you know of any tool designed to release these terminals so they can be pulled up through their plastic housing I would like to know.
The electrical harness is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter and very hard and brittle. It is tightly mounted to the wheel well. I expect that I will have to remove the hydraulic lines form the master cylinder and that will cause the lines to B bent out of proportion.
I am beginning to think that there is an internal wire break withing the wires coming to the fuelpump relay.
Follow UP for Crank NO Start. After several months I have isolated the problem. Background Can't say enought about COACH NET and their excellent customer service for returning my12,000 lb Champion Chase Commander to our home in Lavonia, GA.
OK here is my problem.... I finally determined that there is either a broken wire or corrosion of the female socket into which the fuel pump relay plugs.
(I HOPE THE FORD ENGINEER..... that decided that best location for the fuse/relay box under the hood would be next to the battery shelf attached to the interior wheel well on the driver side and just below the master cylinder below the two brake hydraulic steel lines that have 3 inch circular windings. HAS TO SPEND ETERNITY TRYING TO GET HIS ZIPPER DOWN TO KEEP FROM PISSING ON HIM/HER-SELF.) I ACTUALLY REMOVED THE FUSE/RELAY BOX FROM A SIMILAR JUNK VAN TO SEE HOW THE HARNESS FEMALE SPADE TERMINALS WERE INSERTED IN THE BOX FROM THE BOTTOM.
I am about to begin the deep dive into this project to try and access the harness without breaking more wires in order to soulder new terminals on the fuel pump relay harness wires. If you know of any tool designed to release these terminals so they can be pulled up through their plastic housing I would like to know.
The electrical harness is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter and very hard and brittle. It is tightly mounted to the wheel well. I expect that I will have to remove the hydraulic lines form the master cylinder and that will cause the lines to B bent out of proportion.
I am beginning to think that there is an internal wire break withing the wires coming to the fuelpump relay.