Trinidad’s Sailing Appeal: Boatyards, Culture, & Crime Reality

Trinidad has long been a hub for cruisers, firstly because of the many facilities in Chaguaramas that cater to all kinds of repair and maintenance needs and secondly because of its strategic location just below the cyclone belt, which makes it attractive for boat storage. But recently Trinidad has been on the news for gang violence and high crime rates—up to the point that the government declared a state of emergency on December 24th.

Trinidad’s yachting industry first gained international recognition in the 1990s when cruisers discovered the benefits of the Chaguaramas peninsula after the traditional north and eastern Caribbean yachting destinations were devastated by strong hurricanes. Since then 180 companies throughout Trinidad have evolved that offer all kinds of services for boaters, 140 of those in the Chaguaramas area, where most of the shops and services focus specifically on the marine industry. No wonder that cruisers from all over the world flock there to have work done. The Trinidad and Tobago (T&T) tourism office boasts that “visitors experience a unique fusion of cultures in food, fashion, music, festivals, and other celebrations. In this multicultural friendly society, cruisers easily connect with persons in the local community and return year after year to their Trini family” and adds that “the capital city of Port-of-Spain, neighbouring towns and communities also offer a wide array of quality shopping and food. Beaches, waterfalls, hiking trails, birding sites, the mud volcano, the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, are just some popular sites for visitors to explore.”

But recently T&T have had some very negative coverage in the news, because last year the twin-island Caribbean nation, which only has a population of about 1.5 million, recorded 624 homicides, making it one of the most violent countries in Latin America. After a particularly violent weekend the government declared a state of emergency to avoid a further escalation of gang violence. President Christine Carla Kangaloo issued the declaration on the advice of Prime Minister Keith Rowley, who had been under growing pressure to take action over worsening crime figures, which are believed to be due to organised crime with many of the murders related to the international drug trade as international organized crime factions, mostly Mexican and Colombian, compete for dominance across the Caribbean. 

Many governments have issued travel warnings for certain areas of Trinidad, e.g. the Canadian government has issued the advice to avoid non-essential travel to to the following areas due to high levels of violence and gang-related crime: Beetham Estate Gardens, Cocorite (north of Western Main Road), Downtown Port of Spain (east of Charlotte street, south and west of Picadilly street, and north of Independence Square), Laventille and Sea Lots.

Such news understandably scare away cruisers and of course the T&T ministry of tourism tries to limit the damage with assurances that visitors are perfectly safe there. 

How bad is the situation really when you’re in Chaguaramas and Port of Spain? 

We asked Sanne, a fellow cruiser, about her experiences there and she assured us that with some common sense and extra precautions you can have a good time in Trinidad. Quiet, laid-back Tobago is still considered safe for cruisers anyway.

Birgit: Hi Sanne, you’ve just left Trinidad and Tobago after an extended visit. Where did you spend your time?

Sanne: We stayed mainly at TTSA in Chaguaramas (about 8 months), because we had lots of work to do on our newly acquired boat. Afterwards we spent one month in Tobago.

Birgit: Did you feel safe?

Sanne: In Chaguaramas I definitely felt safe. Same on nature hikes, etc. I just walked my dog by myself no problem.

Birgit: What precautions did you take in town?

Sanne: It sounds weird, but I usually don’t give much thought to appearances. In Trinidad I did: I tried not to look like a tourist too much when going into town, and not wear jewelry. You also don’t walk around with your phone in hand, people will tell you to put it away for safety, so not many holiday snapshots.

Birgit: What were the vibes in the main town? 

Sanne: Most people are typically friendly as most Trinidadians. Maybe a little more to themselves than in other places. Many people are cautious regarding safety, it is definitely something that they don’t take for granted and people wish you a safe trip home all the time. I also had people I didn’t know looking out for me. There was a guy who waited with me at a bus stop because he didn’t like the looks of a man who had passed by it a few times.

Birgit: What precautions did you take?

Sanne: I took the advice of locals seriously regarding safety. E.g. I didn’t go walking around in Port of Spain by myself anymore just for fun. I did go there, but only when I had specific business and errands to run.

Birgit: How about transport?

Sanne: Maxitaxi is considered safe, especially during the day. The shared taxis are considered unsafe by many people, because they sometimes take a detour and then are robbed (a friend’s brother had that happen 3 times) Private taxis and public bus are considered safe as well.

Birgit: Do shops take more safety precautions? Barred windows, security personnel? Does the boatyard?

Sanne: Most boat yards have a security guard and are fenced. Barred windows are standard everywhere.

Birgit: Are there areas considered a no-go for tourists? Were you warned?

Sanne: Laventille is a no go. I usually just asked before I had to go somewhere if it was safe.

Birgit: So would you go back to Trinidad?

Sanne: Absolutely, we made so many friends there, just unbelievable. And they still call us almost every day. It’s such a contrast how a country can have such a scare by crime and then the nicest people in the world at the same time. Also they have a real sailing culture! There were regular races organised by the TTSA in Chaguaramas and we were invited to participate, which was real fun!

 

Sanne and her husband Marijn have been cruising since 2013. On their Swan 65 they invite guests on board for an immersive live aboard experience (www.skylarkingilios.com). Visit their vlog on YouTube: @skylarkingilios

Birgit and Christian have been cruising aboard their SY Pitufa since 2011. Check out their blog www.pitufa.at for more info or read their books: “Sailing Towards the Horizon”, “On Velvet Paws towards the Horizon” and “Cruising Know-How” are available on Amazon.

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