Sailing the Shipping Forecast: Tyne’s marvels and Holy Island, ‘A place that stirs the imagination’

Celebrating 100 years of the BBC Shipping Forecast, Jane Russell takes us on a series of coastal cruises through the forecast sea areas, exploring some of the special places on offer.

The anchorage at Lindisfarne (Holy Island) lies right at the top of the Tyne sea area. Fewer than 10 miles to the south-east are the Farne Islands.

But then, with the exception of Coquet Island off Amble, there are no more islands and few prominent and protective headlands.

At first glance and on a small scale, you could be forgiven for assuming that there is little shelter on this coast.

In fact, there are several river entrances that have long been protected within breakwaters to create a chain of historic ports, including the Tyne itself. Each harbour is only a short daysail from the next.

Between them are numerous small drying harbours or more open anchorages, perfect for smaller boats during settled, easier days.

Cruising in the Tyne Area

The Tyne area coastline stretches south or south-easterly to its boundary between Scarborough and Filey Brigg.

The prevailing winds come off the land and in these conditions it can be gloriously smooth coastal sailing. However, just as further north, winds with any east in them can drive unpleasant and dangerous swells.

Equally, a big Atlantic swell will find its way over the top of Scotland and down the east coast, catching you unawares unless you have been monitoring the waves as well as the wind.

Tides flood southwards along this coast and are mostly relatively gentle.

Nevertheless, wind against tide can create surprisingly short but steep seas which shouldn’t be underestimated, particularly when sailing to windward. Streams run more strongly at Holy Island and through the Farne Islands.

The Farne Islands and Lindsifarne, Holy Island

The unmistakable silhouette of Lindisfarne Castle drew our gaze as we reached out from Berwick-upon-Tweed. Lindisfarne – or Holy Island– is a place that stirs the imagination.

It sits just south of the boundary between sea areas Forth and Tyne and is only a short hop from Berwick. It was achievable to leave the Tweed with enough water at half flood and then make it into the anchorage near the top of the tide.

With good visibility, we headed inside Plough Seat Reef towards the Ridge easterly cardinal buoy and then lined up the pair of tall stone obelisks on the outer leading line.

A turn to starboard onto the inner leading line, past a gathering of seals determined to maximise their sandbank time, and we were soon anchored comfortably off The Heugh with the ebb just beginning.

We dinghied ashore into the midst of a gaggle of geography students.

The Heugh is an outcrop of igneous rock, and the shore beneath it boasts a striking boundary between this dark rock and the surrounding white limestone.

We didn’t know this when we landed, but a short climb up onto the top led us past several information boards.

Then, in the old coastguard observation tower, we were rewarded with spectacular views; south across the anchorage towards Farne; eastwards over The Ouse towards the castle, perched on its own igneous outcrop; north over the abbey remains; and westwards over the sandbanks and marshes towards the mainland.

This was a wild realm of saints and plunderers. Now a magnet for pilgrims of all varieties – scientists and birdwatchers, historians, artists and geologists, as well as those of faith. Of course, we too were on a pilgrimage of sorts.

I read somewhere that the early Celtic Christian concept of pilgrimage wasn’t to a known destination but rather into the unknown, towards new horizons. Perhaps the draw of cruising is a draw on every Celtic soul.

We stretched our legs past the upturned old herring boats reincarnated as storage sheds around the edge of The Ouse. This cosier anchorage is no good for Tinfish but is ideal for smaller boats that can take the ground. Our walk now merged with the stream of overland visitors heading towards the iconic castle.

Built in the 16th century, it was later converted by Sir Edwin Lutyens into an Edwardian country house and is now run by the National Trust. It is often open to visitors, but not that day. Instead we walked across to the lovely walled garden designed by Gertrude Jekyll.

We completed a full circuit, through the village and into the abbey ruins, then we dropped back down to the old lifeboat station overlooking St Cuthbert’s Island.

We needed to get back to the boat before the tide disappeared too far. We were glad to be back aboard, as the realisation of the probable effects of the stronger than forecast winds against the flood tide was causing concern.

The anchorage soon became rather less comfortable, with Tinfish dancing the hokey cokey in, out and all about at the peak of the flow. But the holding seemed good, there were no other boats to tangle with, and the new ebb brought a return to comfort.

W or NW, backing SW later, 4 to 6, but becoming variable 2 to 4 for a time. Slight or moderate, occasionally smooth near coast. Showers, then fair, rain or drizzle later. Good, occasionally poor later.

We ran south-eastwards from Holy Island through the Inner Sound with Bamburgh Castle to starboard and the Farne Islands to port. We wanted to anchor at the Farnes, as we had the year before, but bird flu was doing its worst and the islands were closed.

It seemed no time at all since we had anchored between West Wideopen and Knocks Reef amidst a cacophony of seabirds, completely charmed by the inquisitive puffins and rather taken aback by the enormity of the grey seals.

It was with heavy hearts that we sailed on by.

Amble and the Coquet Islands

The next stretch of coast, south of Seahouses, is a beach holiday heaven. Mile upon mile of pale golden sands overlooked by the jagged ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle.

In a smaller boat and in settled weather there could be stops at Beadnell, Newton or Craster. Further south there could be more exploration into Alnmouth. But for deeper draught boats the next harbour is Amble.

We found our first Tinfish on a river mooring at Amble and it has held a place in our hearts ever since. The town has a holiday feel and the fish restaurants beside the quay are a great place to spend an evening.

Above half tide there should be access for most boats in the entrance channel and above the tidal sill into the marina. But the marina can get busy in the season so it’s best to book ahead. The marina website has all the information you need.

This time we were heading on southwards, outside Coquet Island towards the high chimneys at Lynemouth, past the somehow bizarre sight of the church completely surrounded by static caravans on Newbiggin Point, inside the wind farm off Blyth, then on towards the Tyne.

Blyth

The Royal Northumberland Yacht Club marina at Blyth (the only all-weather harbour on this coast), with its historic light vessel as a clubhouse, has long been a favourite haven for locals and visitors alike, but time was running out on us for our trip around Britain.

Joined by a small group of dolphins who seemed to approve of our progress, we decided to push on. One of our top spots is the Herd Sand anchorage off Littlehaven Beach at South Shields.

It’s inside the harbour breakwaters on the south side of the River Tyne, but is off a beach of golden sand with swim buoys.

It was good to be back there, under the monumental gaze of Lord Collingwood from the other side of the river at Tynemouth.

Ashore it was only a moderate walk round the Arbeia Roman fort, just one of the many Roman sites in the region. But we felt that we’d earned some fish and chips, which we munched in the park behind the beach.

The following morning a naval ship was coming in and we had to wait for permission from Tyne VTS to leave. But we then had a fast reach down the coast, past Sunderland to Hartlepool.

Hartlepool

The approach to Hartlepool is from the north and skirts around Headland, the oldest part of the town which has a rich, sometimes traumatic past.

Through the breakwaters and into the marina lock, we rose up into a more modern area of waterside development. But there is history here too.

It’s only a short walk around the basin to the Museum of Hartlepool and the National Museum of the Royal Navy with the 200-year-old HMS Trincomalee.

From Hartlepool the coastline shoulders out more southeasterly, so even with some south in it we would have an angle to sail and the wind would still be off the land. We picked our way through the shipping heading in and out of the Tees, leaving the windfarm to starboard.

Beyond the reefs off Redcar we closed the coast again near Saltburn and through our binoculars checked out the old Victorian water-balanced funicular that continues to run up and down the cliff between the pier and the town.

After the big commercial ports, this was the start of a more genteel section of the North Yorkshire coast, with pretty villages clinging to the cliffs.

Runswick Bay

Runswick Bay is one such village overlooking a sandy beach and broad bay, open to the northeast but well protected from the west and south. There were a few pot buoys to negotiate on the way in, but it’s a fine anchorage. On the south coast it would be packed with dozens of boats.

Here, we had the water completely to ourselves. The beach was much busier and the old fishing village was a holiday haven of winding pathways amongst higgledy-piggledy red-roofed cottages, sandy children queuing for ice creams and the pub spilling out beyond its garden onto the benches beyond.

We wound our way up through the village and briefly joined the Cleveland Way national trail coastal section which runs between Saltburn and Filey. A very steep descent back down inevitably led us to the pub.

From Runswick Bay we had the very tempting options of both Whitby and Scarborough.

Planning for a stop at either would mean a later departure so that we could go in on the flood. And each would occupy us for at least another day.

We only had about a week left before we needed to be back in Suffolk to complete our round Britain trip, and the extended forecast was beginning to look rather ugly.

We were now in the south-western corner of the Tyne sea area, and were experiencing the SW veering W forecast for Humber, which was an excellent breeze for good progress.

Coupled with the likelihood of a free ride on the accelerating flood tide as it squeezed towards Flamborough Head, we decided to keep going.

Off Whitby the wind filled to F4 and as we reached past Scarborough towards Filey Brigg it became a F5 with very dark grey clouds lowering. Both of these historic harbours would have to wait until next time, but for now we were barrelling into Humber.

Sailing the Tyne area: Getting around

Marinas and crew changes

There are marinas or pontoon visitor berths at Amble (with a tidal sill); at Blyth; on the Tyne; on the Wear; at Hartlepool (via a lock); in Whitby (through a swing bridge); and at Scarborough.

For the harbours that are tidally restricted, tidal planning is essential. When conditions allow, there are very useful all-tide anchorages at Tynemouth and Runswick Bay. The Tees is probably better avoided but it does offer an anchorage inside the eastern breakwater at Paddy’s Hole.

In settled periods there are several more open beach anchorages, particularly north of Blyth between Beadnell and Newbiggin.

Newcastle is a major transport hub with flight connections to London, Southampton, Bristol, Exeter, Newquay, Belfast and the Channel Islands. Flights from Teesside also connect to London and the Channel Islands as well as to Aberdeen.

The coastal train line links many of the harbours, either directly or via the Tyne and Wear Metro. Buses connect to Amble, Blyth and smaller harbours and anchorages.

Overland access to Lindisfarne (Holy Island) is via a tidal causeway. Safe crossing times are published at www.lindisfarne.org.uk.

Tripper boats run out to the Farne Islands from Seahouses but landings are restricted and may be prohibited during bird flu outbreaks. Check www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/north-east/farne-islands.

Pilotage information

The Royal Northumberland Yacht Club publishes Sailing Directions to the North East Coast (see Visitors section on the RNYC website).

Cook’s Country (Imray) is currently rather out of date but nonetheless useful in detailing coastal anchorages as well as ports along this coast. The Cruising Almanac (Imray) is also very helpful.

Tips and contacts: places to stop

You would be hard pushed to find a stretch of UK coast with more to see and do at every stop.

This sea area runs from the wild and windswept Lindisfarne, with its abbey ruins and defiant but dreamlike castle, through the Farne Islands with their epic tales of shipwreck and brave rescue by Grace Darling and others, past the magnificent castle at Bamburgh and the fractured ruin at Dunstanburgh.

It runs onward to the River Coquet with its own castle at Warkworth and its offlying hermitage island.

Ancient storylines of faith and battle mingle here in a protected landscape that is an essential breeding area for seabirds and seals.

Further south, the development of coastal commerce becomes more evident in and around the great seaports of the North East. The histories of the Tyne, Wear and Tees and their surrounding regions go back to Roman times.

Whitby is something of a pilgrimage for many sailors. Not because of its abbey but because it was the learning ground for Captain James Cook.

It is also home to Whitby Jet gemstone.

This geological celebrity is just one of many notable natural features along this coast, sections of which are prime fossil-hunting grounds. Much of the coast is accessible via coastal footpaths between ports and anchorages.

The Farne Islands

Best visited at neaps and in settled conditions. The islands are a nature reserve and landing is prohibited except on Farne, Staple and Longstone.

Best anchorages are; The Kettle (NE of Farne Island on the west side of the drying ridge that connects Knocks Reef and West Wideopen); and on the east, between Knocks Reef and West Wideopen.

Blyth

Blyth is a commercial harbour but there is also a marina with visitor berths at the Northumberland Yacht Club in the South Harbour. Call Blyth Harbour on VHF 12 on approach.

The all-tide entrance is feasible in most weather except in strong E or SE when seas break across it. https://rnyc.org.uk.

Newcastle

It is a memorable 10-mile passage up the Tyne from the harbour entrance to the middle of Newcastle with its iconic bridges.

Newcastle City Marina provides pontoon visitor berthing alongside the quay, between the Tyne Bridge and the Millennium Bridge, right at the very heart of this historic city. www.newcastlecitymarina.co.uk.

Whitby

The swing bridge opens on request each hour and half hour, for two hours either side of high water. Call on VHF 11 before entering the harbour. The Captain Cook Museum is harbourside.

The 13th- century Benedictine abbey remains, now an English Heritage site, dominate the skyline from the sea and are also worth a visit.

Jane and David Russell have been cruising together for over 30 years, during which time they completed a five-year circumnavigation with their first Tinfish, a 37ft 1964 steel Piet Hein. They continue to voyage on Tinfish II, a 39ft steel Mike Pocock, and are currently rediscovering Madeira and the Canary Islands.

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