Sailing to ‘a picture-book village, with ancient houses and shaded alleyways’

Detlef Jens enjoys sailing between Augustenborg and Aarø in the Baltic, one of the cruising grounds of his youth, which is still every bit as appealing today

Ghosting up the narrow Als Sound, with only the faintest breeze over glassy water, through a beautiful, picture-book scenery that is so typical for this part of the world, my mind begins to wander. The cows gaze at me dispassionately from the small beach at the head of the Sound as I quietly sail by, as I think back at my own past, if not quite so unemotionally.

This is where I spent large chunks of my youth, messing about in various boats. My memory begins to unfold as I sail on.

The hard and clear blue sky and the bright red Danish flags, stiff in the fresh breeze. The cold and the dampness while cruising a dinghy through a rainy July, and the hot stillness of one of many perfect, northern summer days that seems to last forever, only so slowly slipping into a translucent night and then, before darkness really falls, shyly emitting an unmistakable radiance in preparation for yet another perfectly bright and hot day.

Sailing playground

This particular part of the Baltic, in the sheltered waters of the Lillebælt and the waters behind the island of Als, makes for an ideal playground. No tides, no distances worth speaking of, seldom any fog. A sense of voyaging even if one only sails a handful of miles each day.

Scope for exploration and solitude and wildlife, with birds, the odd harbour porpoise, and jellyfish. In my youth, a sailing summer in Denmark used to consist mainly of jellyfish, hot dogs and first love. After a while I could at least handle the jellyfish and the hot dogs.

Having sailed north from Kiel to the vibrant university town of Sønderborg, the magic unfolds once again. Despite the picturesque harbour front and the very inviting bars and restaurants ashore, I decided to carry on. Sønderborg is pleasant but also very popular.

At the height of the summer, yachts that moor alongside the pier in the city centre usually raft up two or three deep. An alternative would be the yacht harbour south of the town, but this is a long walk from where the action is.

I prefer to pass through Kong Christian X Bro, a bridge that opens once an hour, to enter the idyllic Als Sound, finally entering this fairytale sailing ground. After about five miles, it opens up into the wider Als Fjord.

Memories unlocked

At the southern end of the Fjord lies Augustenborg, with its Baroque palace from 1770. The building, prominent in view from the channel leading into the harbour, evokes yet more memories. Luciano Pavarotti on his farewell tour, in 2005, performing on a stage in front of the palace.

We could listen from the other side of the water, from the jetties of the yacht harbour, for free. As we learnt then, Elton John, Eric Clapton and Bryan Adams have also played here. More recently, a philanthropist by the name of Mark Augustenborg has renovated some side buildings of the palace, creating an art gallery, beautiful flats available for rent and the very friendly gourmet bistro and wine bar that is Augustenborg Garden.

On a more practical note, Augustenborg has a yacht harbour with all facilities including a diesel pump, haul-out, repairs and winter storage for those reluctant to sail their boat all the way back to England.
Beautiful anchorages are plentiful in the near vicinity.

A special mention deserves what must be regarded as the mother of natural harbours.

At the end of the small fjord of Stegsvig, a narrow passage allows boats – one at a time, otherwise it is too narrow – to enter the twin bays of Dyvig and Mjels Vig, where one can anchor in complete shelter, or make fast at the sailing club. Or at the beautiful and luxurious Dyvig Badehotel with their own jetties, should you wish to indulge in gourmet dining.

Sailing north into the Lillebaelt will open up many new places such as the nearby island of Aarø. A picture-book village, with ancient houses and shaded alleyways, sits close to the small harbour on the western side. What do people do for a living on a tiny island like this? One answer comes as a pleasant surprise when I discover Årø Vingård. Can they really make decent wine here? I decided to test the local products and find the white and the rosé very drinkable.

Ideal launchpad

This varied and sheltered micro-cruising area is just one day’s sail north of the exit of the Kiel Canal into the Baltic. Approaching from the south, as you enter the outer reach of Flensburg Fjord, you will head towards Sønderborg on the Danish side and pass through the lifting bridge for Als Sound and Als Fjord. The area is also perfect for dinghy cruising and trailer-sailors.

A good place to launch your boat from a trailer would be the slipway in Marina Minde, situated roughly half way into Flensburg Fjord, only about 10 nautical miles from Sønderborg. Minde offers all the marina facilities you could wish for, including a slipway and safe, long-term car parking.

For more information: www.marinaminde.dk – www.mj-vaerft.dk/en

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