Zhik Spirit of Adventure: ‘Wonderful opportunities for whale watching as these gracious creatures head north’

Frances and Michael Howorth highlight the routes and knowledge sailors should have before they sail south to the bottom of the world

Sailing a yacht down to Antarctica can be an incredible adventure. Get it right and it will earn its ‘voyage of a lifetime’ reputation. Taking a small yacht into the area offers the opportunity to plan a private and exclusive voyage that avoids routes used by exploration cruise ships. Offering freedom and the flexibility to explore the remote areas, it is an intimate experience in one of the most pristine environments on Earth.

The best time to sail is during the Antarctic summertime when the ice retreats, and weather conditions are more stable. The Antarctic cruising season runs from November to March, during the Southern Hemisphere summer. The early months offer the best chance to witness pristine ice landscapes, courtship behaviours in wildlife, and longer daylight hours.

Just after Christmas until the end of February is perhaps the warmest it gets down there. With the peak in temperature comes increased wildlife activity, and the best chance to see young penguin chicks and seal pups.

March witnesses the final stages of the Antarctic summer but there are still wonderful opportunities for whale watching as these gracious creatures begin to head north. Ushuaia, the southernmost city in Argentina, is a popular starting point due to its proximity to the Antarctic Peninsula, which lies about 540 nautical miles away.

Other yachts, especially those that will have sailed down the Chilean coast and around Cape Horn, prefer to start from either Punta Arenas or Porto Williams, which lies across the Beagle Channel from Ushuaia but on the Chilean side.

Punta Arenas, Ushuaia and Porto Williams all offer safe anchorages, good chandleries and the opportunity to stock up on fresh foods and essential supplies. Fuel and water can be taken. Use your time in these safe havens to make sure you, the crew, and the boat are fully prepared for what will be, even in the best of conditions, trying times!

Sailing your yacht to Antarctica is an awe-inspiring but demanding journey. It requires careful preparation, specialised equipment, and respect for the region’s fragile environment. While it offers unparalleled adventure and discovery, it also comes with significant risks and responsibilities. For those with the necessary skills, resources and mindset, it really can be the voyage of a lifetime.

Challenging start

Most yachts depart for the Antarctic Peninsula, South Shetland Islands, and Lemaire Channel from Argentina or Chile. The first days of the voyage are spent crossing the Drake Passage. This is perhaps the most challenging aspect of the voyage with notoriously rough seas and unpredictable weather. The route most generally used takes yachts southeast through the Drake to the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The exact course depends on weather, currents and ice conditions. After departure, head east-south-east along the Beagle Channel. Pass by Isla de los Estados (Staten Island) on your port side as you leave. After clearing the channel, enter the Drake Passage and set a course of approximately 140° to 150° true, for roughly 600 miles aiming for Cape Shirreff on the northern coast of the South Shetland Islands using King George Island or Livingston Island as your first waypoint. Be prepared for challenging conditions. Anticipate strong westerly winds and currents flowing eastward throughout the passage.

Article continues below…

The Antarctic Circumpolar Current flows west to east, which can help or hinder your progress depending on your course. Some yachts prefer to route slightly further north or south within the Drake Passage depending on weather forecasts and sea conditions. A northern approach to the South Shetland Islands often provides better shelter from the strongest winds.

King George Island is the largest and most accessible island in the South Shetlands, with research stations and emergency resources. Once past the South Shetland Islands, adjust your course southward toward your desired destination on the Antarctic Peninsula. Monitor ice charts and weather forecasts to avoid heavy ice or storms. By planning carefully and adapting to the conditions, you can make the crossing safely and enjoy the incredible experience of reaching Antarctica.

Safe places to head for

Ports and anchorages in and around the Antarctic Peninsula are not traditional ports. Instead, yachts use natural harbours, anchorages and landing sites. Here are some of the better-known anchorages and sites commonly used by sailing yachts in the Antarctic Peninsula.

We have chosen them for their relative shelter, proximity to points of interest, and suitability for sailing yachts. Before sailing into them please heed our cautions and exercise proper planning, with respect for the environment, as these are essential for a safe and rewarding stay.

Deception Island

In the South Shetland Islands, Deception is a volcanic caldera with a sheltered natural harbour accessible via a narrow channel called Neptune’s Bellows.

Watch for strong winds and submerged hazards near the entrance. Once inside, Whalers Bay offers a safe anchorage and an opportunity to explore abandoned whaling station ruins and geothermal features.

Fournier Bay

An open and sometimes exposed bay 8 miles long and 3 miles wide on the north coast of Anvers Island, Fournier Bay was first charted by the French Antarctic Expedition 1903-1905, under Jean-Baptiste Charcot, and was named after Vice Admiral Ernest Fourier of the French Navy.

Melchior Islands

Just north of Anvers Island near the northern entrance of the Gerlache Strait, the Melchior Islands are a sheltered group of islands providing good anchorages in calm conditions. Excellent for wildlife observation, including seals and whales. Ice floes can drift into the area, requiring careful anchoring.

Port Lockroy

On the western coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, Port Lockroy is located on Goudier Island, which itself lies just off the coast of Wiencke Island. This historic British base now operates as a museum and post office. The port offers a sheltered anchorage and opportunities for cultural visits and wildlife observation, notably penguins.

Space is limited here so yachts may need to raft together. In 1996, a team from the British Antarctic Survey renovated the buildings. Since then, the site has been open to visitors during the southern summer months. It is now managed by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT) which operates the site as a ‘living museum’ including a small, very popular (but rather expensive) gift shop.

All profits from the shop proceeds go towards renovation of other historic sites in Antarctica. There is a small team which works from Port Lockroy each year, living in close quarters with no running water and limited facilities. The post office at Port Lockroy is the UK’s most southerly public post office. Affectionately known as the Penguin Post Office, it handles around 70,000 postcards a year posted here to over 100 countries around the world.

Dorian Bay

Discovered and named by the French Antarctic Expedition team, under Jean-Baptiste Charcot in 1903, Dorian Bay is near Port Lockroy. Sometimes also called Damoy Point, it is a small, sheltered anchorage with access to nearby hiking trails and gentoo penguin colonies. It offers a good alternative to Port Lockroy, which can become crowded.

A well-preserved hut containing scientific equipment and other artefacts stands at Damoy point. The hut was built in 1973 and was used for several years as a transit station for scientific personnel using the nearby airstrip that served the British bases.

That air repatriation service ceased in 1993, and the hut was left unattended until it was rescued and renovated by the UKAHT.

Paradise Bay

Located on the mainland of the Antarctic Peninsula, Paradise Bay is a stunning bay surrounded by glaciers and steep mountains. Often used by cruise ships for Zodiac landings and kayaking, several yacht anchorages are available. The bay offers a chance to explore Argentine and Chilean research stations, but be aware that icebergs and calving glaciers can create hazards for yachts.

Cuverville Island

Cuverville Island is in the Errera Channel, off the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It is known for its large gentoo penguin colony. Provides a calm anchorage in favourable conditions but surrounding icebergs and currents can pose challenges.

Neko Harbour

Inside Andvord Bay on the mainland of the Antarctic Peninsula, Neko Harbour is a dramatic anchorage with views of glaciers and mountains. As an anchorage for yachts, it offers opportunities for shore landings to visit a gentoo penguin colony and the chance to undertake a glacier hike. Beware icefalls from nearby glaciers.

Enterprise Island

Located in Wilhelmina Bay, west of the Antarctic Peninsula, Enterprise Island offers a sheltered anchorage and access to the wreck of the whaling ship Gouvernoren, which can be explored by tender. Ice and underwater obstructions require vigilance.

Lemaire Channel

Together with the Neumayer Channel, the Lemaire Channel is known for its stunning views, entrancing many visitors as they are surrounded by towering natural ice sculptures and tabular icebergs. The Lemaire Channel itself is quite narrow, running between Booth Island and the icy Antarctic Peninsula.

Playful penguins and seals are a major attraction, and there is also quite often the opportunity for whale spotting. It is a stunning and well-known passage in Antarctica, offering a mostly sheltered and scenic route for vessels travelling along the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The Lemaire Channel is a highlight for many Antarctic voyages, including those undertaken by yachts. Although it is suitable for scenic cruising, navigation for yachtsmen can be challenging due to icebergs and strong currents but there are at times limited anchorage options for careful and vigilant seafarers.

Charlotte Bay

Located north of Andvord Bay along the Antarctic Peninsula, Charlotte Bay is a less visited, picturesque bay offering relatively calm anchorages, together with opportunities for wildlife viewing and tender exploration. Ice conditions can vary greatly.

The Neumayer Channel

The Neumayer Channel is a well-travelled route running 16 miles-long between Anvers Island and the Wiencke and Doumer Islands. As it is a rather narrow waterway, it can be found entirely blocked off by giant icebergs and glaciers during the more icy months of the Antarctic winter.

The Neumayer Channel is a must-visit destination for vessels exploring the Antarctic Peninsula. Its combination of sheltered waters, dramatic scenery, and abundant wildlife makes it a memorable highlight of any Antarctic adventure. In general, yachtsmen should watch for signs of changing ice conditions such as thinning or drifting ice. Avoid freezing spray which can accumulate on rigging.

Weddell Sea

The Weddell Sea is usually heavily iced, the pack generally extending north to about 600 south in the western and central sectors in early summer, a factor that severely hindered early ship exploration and one that should make the modern day sailing boat skipper sail with just as much care and attention.

In 1820, the British brig Williams, while making one of the first attempts at penetration even further south, was stopped by ice off the coast of north-eastern Graham Land.

In the same year, pack ice stopped the Russian ship Vostok just south of the South Sandwich Islands.

Three years later the British explorer and sealer, James Weddell, on the brig Jane, found an unusually open route south-eastward from the South Orkney Islands and reached a farthest south position of 740 15’S, 340 17’W.

James Weddell, originally named his discovery the George IV Sea, but this was later abandoned, in 1900, when it was proposed that the sea be named after the man who had discovered it.

This article is a part of our Zhik Spirit of Adventure Awards. 

Enjoyed reading this?

A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price, so you can save money compared to buying single issues.

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals.

YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.

• • • Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts
    • Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment
    • Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

The post Zhik Spirit of Adventure: ‘Wonderful opportunities for whale watching as these gracious creatures head north’ appeared first on Yachting Monthly.