Ionian Hidden Jewels: Secret Guide to Greek Sailing

Do you know the Ionian well? Perhaps not as well as you think. Tom Fletcher shares his local neighbourhood highlights

I’ve sailed the area close to Sail Ionian’s base more often than anywhere else. Located to the east of Lefkada, and to the north of Meganisi, it’s known as the Inland Sea.

I think it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world, and probably the best sailing area in the world too! Many sailors dismiss it once they have been to Meganisi a few times, and head straight south to Kefalonia or Ithaca. To me, that’s a cardinal sin.

The Inland Sea is exactly that: bordered by land on all sides, it could almost be a lake within the South Ionian. Indeed, some mornings the deep clear water is so calm it looks like a mirror. The mountains of the mainland frame the view out from Lefkada and turn a stunning orange at sunset. Nestled here are the Prince’s Islands. The largest of this group is Meganisi, followed by Skorpios, Skorpidi, Sparti, Madouri, then tiny Cheloni and Tsokari.

It’s a perfect small, safe cruising area, and at Sail Ionian we often recommend that newly qualified charterers stay here for a few days while they gain confidence. It’s also the main area we visit on day charters, or fun days out on a RIB. The bulk of the area sits within Lefkada’s wind shadow and has a reputation for unexciting sailing. However, that’s simply not true. While the area close to Lefkada can be sheltered, there are other parts of the Inland Sea that regularly see winds of 15-20kts. For example, the wind blows down the channel over the canal in between Lefkada and the mainland every afternoon in the summer like clockwork. Often when we’re teaching, I will head up here to practice points of sail, reefing and MOBs.

Sailors do have to beware of the Heiromiti shoal though. This is the most dangerous area in the southern Ionian and for some reason remains unmarked. To the north of Meganisi and southeast of Skorpios, one area of the shoal is just under the surface and yachts occasionally hit it. I often wonder why the Greek authorities do not put an isolated danger marker buoy on it. An area just to the east of the shoal is around 4 meters deep… on a calm day we use it to teach three-point fixes for exciting navigation practice!

The Inland Sea is generally quieter mid-week in the summer. With a lot of charter boats based on Lefkada and in Preveza, most will visit Meganisi when charters start at the weekend, or when returning to base on their last night. If you can visit in the middle of the week, you’ll find a lot of yachts are in the south leaving quieter harbours and anchorages behind. Beware of southerly forecasts though: harbours like Vathi on Meganisi have a deservedly good reputation as a safe haven, particularly in stormy south winds, and can get very busy.

There are so many bays, anchorages and interesting sites to visit around the Inland Sea. Charters who hurry south to the larger islands miss out on a wonderful area with a lot to offer. Next time you’re in the Ionian, consider spending a little more time here, and maybe visit some of my favourite spots.

Ionian Sailing: A deserted coastline

From Kaisari Beach in the north, to Elia Beach in the south, the stretch of coastline running south of Palairos has numerous small beaches where you can get away from it all in the summer. The string of villas south of Vounaki soon runs out, and few people bother continuing down the coast road towards Mytikas. After a mile or so, you often don’t see anyone at all. Even if you do, there are enough coves and small beaches to find one to yourself and drop the hook. It is, however, all relatively exposed down the coast, so it’s not great on a windy day. While Mytikas harbour is nothing to write home about, Ouzeri O Pharos is a lovely taverna for lunch if you’re in this area. The town beach also stretches for miles to the east, with good depths for anchoring, few charter yachts, and beautiful views across to Kalamos.

Elia & Katomeri

Elia is one of the lesser known bays on the northeast of Meganisi. Compared with Atheni and the others to the north, it is a much quieter option, but it also offers less shelter if the wind picks up, and it does not have a taverna. Depths are fine for anchoring, generally under 10m even in the middle, and there is a small pebbly beach. Long lining against the northern shore is usually my preferred option. Away from the crowds, this is a nice place to while away an afternoon dozing and swimming. A 10-minute walk up the hill from the beach takes you to Katomeri, Meganisi’s quiet main town. There are a couple of traditional simple tavernas, and one of the hotels is open for breakfast.

Sparti

It’s fun to explore some of the small islands in the area. Sparti lies just to the north of Skorpios and Skorpidi and is uninhabited. The story goes that Aristotle Onassis bought Sparti at the same time as Skorpios. After finishing his dream home on Skorpios, he started construction of a house on Sparti for his son, Alexander. However, tragedy struck, and the 25 year old Alexander died piloting a small plane in 1973. Heartbroken, Onassis stopped building on Sparti and never stepped foot on the island again. If you anchor off, you can take the tender into the derelict harbour on the east coast and walk around the island. It’s a quiet and melancholic place with the skeleton of Alexander’s house standing unfinished and overgrown.

Islands of Pogonia

To the south of the village with the same name, a cluster of small islands in the northeast of the area host my favourite anchorage. The islets are difficult to navigate with few soundings, following underwater ridges that shadow the coast running from southwest to northeast. If you shadow the coast inside the islands, you should be fine. Enter the anchorage from the south; it is just inside the largest island closest to the mainland coast. It is marked on Google maps as “Le Rocher de l’Amour”, ie The Rock of Love! Anchor in the channel in just under 10m of water and there is a small bay on the mainland to snorkel and explore. The local dive school train here and have put an upright scooter on the seabed. See if you can find it!

Lygia

Just south of the entrance into the Lefkas canal is a little harbour where sailors are not welcome. The fishermen of Lygia moor their boats alongside and block off the quayside to visitors. It’s not a particularly pretty place anyway, close to the main road around the island. A couple of hundred meters north of the harbour though, the road veers inland, leaving a pleasant pedestrian promenade, and a sheltered anchorage. It’s a very convenient overnight stop if you’re heading north through the canal early the next morning and don’t want to be in busy Lefkas Town. There is also not one, but two excellent tavernas along the sea front. In the hills behind Lygia, a recent archaeological discovery was made: Lefkada’s own classical Greek theatre! 

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