5 days Downeast

June 2024

By R.J. Rubadeau

North-northeast of Schoodic Head, the rugged Maine coast sheds its veneer of gentrification. Shorelines are granite with pine-spiked headlands, bold and unchanged by centuries of ocean swells. Heading inland from your direct course offers only a few passable anchorages and a small handful of busy working harbors chock full of lobster boats.

It is nearly 50 miles from MDI to the Roque Island archipelago. The course is an open ocean passage, with a 30 percent chance of fog during July and August.

Captains embarking on this cruise are bound to face challenges daily, and they will have the opportunity to hone their self-sufficiency skills in new and creative ways. In many ways, Downeast Maine will reward the very best efforts from all boats and their crews.

Chances are, while heading along the outer fingers of rock promontories in both directions, the navigator may experience a fair or foul tide (floods east, ebbs west). Subtracting two or three knots over the ground for hours on end can make portions of the first and last days under way seem endless. The silver lining is that the dependable strong currents keep the maze of lobster traps and their toggles stretched out in a predictable pattern, and when the tide is favorable, you’ll rocket right along.

A strong cautionary tip: Keep a close eye on the Eastern Seaboard weather forecasts. Shelter is seldom ideal along this stretch, and a somewhat predictable wind and sea state is essential to a stress-free adventure. This challenging passage flirts with the formidable rise and fall (up to 25 feet depending on location) of the Bay of Fundy tides, visibility issues that defy logic, an absence of most shoreside assistance in case of an emergency. With these sobering realities in mind, cruisers will experience a special and spectacular coastline that has changed little over the last century

Day 1: MDI to Winter Harbor
Distance: 13 miles

This small fishing and tourist community is less than a half-day sail across Frenchman Bay from MDI. The inner harbor is home to an active lobstering fleet, and there is limited, but acceptable, room to anchor.

Anchorages: The Winter Harbor Yacht Club – along the moderately protected outer harbor on the western shore called Grindstone Neck – is a time portal to a half-century-past experience brought to life in the aging structure, style, amenities, staff, and stately launch service. Center stage at the WHYC is an old-style reading room with a veranda view from the porch above the harbor little changed since the 1920s. Anchoring is possible outside of the mooring field, but consult with the launch driver about access to the club’s floats.

Shoreside activities: Club manager Jim Bean is a true local personality and global waterman who enjoys his job. Give his office a call (207-963-2346 or VHF 9) to reserve a mooring, or use Dockwa. Provisioning, town events, and information on walkable shopping is contained in a handout from the launch. Lunch is served daily, and cubed ice is available.

Day 2: Winter to Mistake Harbor
Distance: 46 miles

Most veteran cruisers try to be under way from Winter Harbor at first light, regardless of the state of the tide. In stable summer weather, the wind builds throughout the afternoon. Once leaving Schoodic Head behind, the lucky few enjoying good visibility can line up on the tall, thin spire of the Petit Manan Island Lighthouse to mark your course. While most will leave the lighthouse to port, the adventurous navigator, in settled conditions, may pass through the cut in the bar despite the removal of the gong and bell that marked that shortcut.

This lighthouse milestone along the path also offers an inland detour to the Trafton Island anchorage – in the middle of Narraguagus Bay – if weather turns against you, either coming or going. The anchorage is straightforward, and all land ashore is private.

The crew should stand a mandatory watch for a sea full of trap buoys and their pots that slalom around for nearly the entire day. The shortest route is along the direct-line course past Petit Manan to the Moose Peak Lighthouse (on Mistake Island, off Steele Harbor Island), an active fog signal since 1827.

The iconic light tower marks the entrance to the Main Channel Way into Jonesport. Leave the light to port and the cliffs of Steele Harbor Island to starboard. Remain in the narrow entrance until you are well past Knight Island and come back up into the anchorage. Beware of the covered ledges near high tide.

Anchorages: Heavy wind/weather protection increases the farther you go up into the basin between Mistake and Knight islands. Anchor in the charted 10-foot spot and mind the mid-teen tidal rise and fall. It may become crowded with four-plus boats, and a nearby alternative is Head Harbor/The Cows Yard (next harbor to the northeast – see Day 4 of itinerary).

Shoreside activities: The Coast Guard’s ancient and steep ramp provides a way ashore for a couple of hours around high tide. It is an active scramble, but it allows access to a wooden boardwalk that leads past the utility shed and out to the point, to a wonderful scene of rocks, ocean swells and an archetypal lighthouse out of a fairy tale. A large colony of seals uses the outer ledges to the west of the anchorage toward Moosabec Reach for a (loud) gathering at low tide.

Mistake to Roque Island
Distance: 11 miles

Leaving Mistake Harbor, turn east and run the coastline of Steele Island, past Head Harbor and Black Head. Cross the mouth of Chandler Bay and approach the daisy chain of barrier islands by leaving The Black Rocks standpipe to port and approach the channel between Great Spruce and Double Shot Islands. The chart marks an eight-foot spot in the center of the narrow passage.

Anchorages: Roque Harbor spreads out ahead with the iconic white-sand crescent beach with over a mile of anchoring opportunities. Depending on wind and wave challenges, two other semi-protected anchorages are available in the archipelago. Bunker Cove is a current-swept parcel of mud and seagrass off the winding Thorofare leading to Chandler Bay and Jonesport. Room here is snug for one boat. Lakeman Harbor, east of Great Beach, has protected room for a handful of boats.

Visitors should explore the possibilities for anchoring farther north and east down the arcing white sand for the ultimate sweet spot to drop the hook, with plenty of scope and distance from neighboring cruisers. In the occasional strong winds that arise off the beach, north of west in these parts, the best protection is often found farther to the east, past the plowed hay fields, at the end of the white sand along the dense wooded high ground under Great Head. Tall pines and steep hillocks offer an effective lee.

Shoreside Activities: Please acknowledge the island family’s longstanding generosity in allowing the yachting community to take a walk on the beach – but not beyond. This island is private, and courtesy demands everyone respect the privacy of the working farm. It is an expected courtesy to the owners to not infringe on the westernmost sections of the beach by anchoring off or landing near the farm’s dirt-road access.

Roque to Jonesport & Head Harbor
Distance: 15 miles

Leaving the Roque Island archipelago via the Thorofare will put you on the doorstep of Moosebec Reach and Jonesport. This small town has a hardcore fishing culture, with only a few resident pleasure boats. It is famous for the World’s Fastest Lobster Boat Races, during the town’s Independence Day celebration. Because of the sizable fishing fleet, Jonesport has significant marine/cruising support facilities although none are “at your fingertips.” This is a well-protected harbor due to its substantial breakwater and a good place to ride out a blow.

Docking, anchorage, moorings: The Jonesport Municipal Marina is on the west side of protected Sawyer Cove. The first set of docks, when approaching from the east along Moosabec Reach, is the town’s dockage. The docks have five feet at low tide, but you can often tie alongside at mid- to high tide. You may be able to anchor outside the moored boats in seven to nine feet at low, but beware of mooring lines and the tight current and wind-driven swing-room limits. Trash bins are located at the head of the dock. Jonesport Shipyard, a rare treasure this far Downeast, stands alone as a high-quality, friendly boatyard with repair, storage, and hauling services available. The yard is in the northwest corner of Sawyer Cove.

Once you have provisioned, the next stop on our cruise is Head Harbor Island. Behind Black Head and Head Harbor is a small hidey-hole called The Cows Yard. There are two routes to Head Harbor from Jonesport. A straightforward approach is to head out from Jonesport the way you came in, toward Mark Island to the north and east. Once clear, run down Chandler Bay, with Roque Island close aboard to port, before turning to starboard at Black Head and enter Head Harbor.

The other approach option is the Jonesport locals’ passage out to Moose Peak Lighthouse, past Mistake Harbor, then rounding Steele Island before entering Head Harbor. This is a tidal, narrow passage with (usually) good marking and accurate depths, but don’t stray off course. The entire Moosabec Reach and the spider-web of attendant waterways off Jonesport are busy thoroughfares, with commercial boats moving quickly in all sorts of weather, with their hefty advantage of hard-won local knowledge. Be especially cautious, particularly if you are new to piloting and navigating in Maine. Enter Head Harbor, staying in the center between Man Island and Steele Harbor Island.

Fellow CCA member Sandy Andrews adds: “With a big sea running, this may involve some surfing, so make sure your path is unobstructed – once you start in, you are committed – but the seas quickly die down once past the entrance. Be sure to avoid the rock to the left (normally breaking even at high tide) and the rock off the inner point to starboard. Both are well charted. Pass through Head Harbor and enter The Cows Yard right over the number “8” shown on the chart. This is an accurate low-tide depth in feet.”

Docking, anchorages, moorings: Anchor in the area where the chart shows a depth of 20 feet (there is less than 10 feet at low). Soundings will allow you to tuck in behind the small island/reef on the eastern side of the entrance, where you will be better protected, but this is not necessary in normal conditions. The anchorage shoals rapidly as you get farther in or farther east, so keep your eye on your fathometer. There is room for three or four boats max. Holding ground is good mud with some kelp. This author has never found kelp to be an issue. There are no moorings.

Getting Ashore: All the land and the visible docks are private property. This anchorage rewards exploration by dinghy, kayak or paddleboard. A circumnavigation of the small islands to the west is highly recommended. Sandy Andrews describes the scene:

“This is a beautiful, secluded anchorage that is easily accessed and well protected in most conditions. Incredibly, one can look directly out to the ocean, but there is virtually no surge. With its many small islands, it is fun to explore by dinghy, and with its large tidal range, the scenery is ever-changing. Wildlife watching is excellent with eagles, seals, and plenty of sea ducks. The Cows Yard is one of the best anchorages on this part of the coast to ride out inclement summer weather.”

 

Day 5: Cows Yard to Little Cranberry Island
Distance: 48 miles

This return to MDI is the longest passage of the cruise and has a hatful of best-guess nuances guaranteed to make life difficult. Departing at first light is a gift that will keep on giving throughout the day. While it is best to try to enhance your mileage with a full six-hour fair tide, you will surely end up bucking the current for a portion of your journey.

Old-school wisdom says to venture farther offshore on your way west for a few good reasons. First is that any foul tide flowing east is likely to move slower when it isn’t trying to immediately fill the hundreds of shallow, long fjords inshore. Second, as the wind builds, it will always find its southwesterly roots. Moving at an angle offshore opens up the vector on the building afternoon breeze and waves.

You will be glad you’re not dealing with these, right on your bow, as you make for The Cranberry Isles. One final note is to always consider seriously the wisdom of turning around and going back to try another day. This is a potentially dangerous section of coastline. Approaching the Cranberries from Downeast, it is easy to head for the north shore of Little Cranberry Island, being sure to stay east of the string of four green cans to the east of Baker Island and Little Cranberry. When you sail into Little Cranberry from the channel, be sure to respect cans “1”, “3” and “5” to port on your approach.

Docking, anchorages, moorings: At Little Cranberry, three town moorings are specified for guests, and private moorings are available, marked as being “for rent” with phone numbers on them. There is also comfortable anchoring with good holding and ample swinging room outside the mooring field off Little Cranberry Island docks.

Getting ashore: Little Cranberry Island is well-known for its activities that appeal to visitors. Within a quarter-mile of the Islesford Dock Restaurant & Gallery dock, one can find Acadia National Park’s Islesford Historic Museum and Islesford Boatworks, the nonprofit wooden boatbuilding school teaching traditional skills. Two art galleries are on the Restaurant Dock, a pottery shop and a gift shop. On nearby Great Cranberry, the Preble-Marr Historical Museum is in Cranberry House along with Hitty’s Cafe. The museum provides an interesting perspective on the evolution of the island community. Great Cranberry also has two nice hikes. One starts along the main road to the left of the tennis court and goes to Preble Cove on the Western Way, which has a lovely beach. Farther up the main road, a Maine Coast Heritage Trust trail goes through the woods out to the outer south shore. The Cranberry Shuttle can both take folks to the trailheads and pick them up later. You can also take one of the ferries over to Mount Desert Island to easily access the trail network of Acadia National Park using the L.L. Bean shuttle service.

This ambitious itinerary opens the cruising boat and her skipper to topography, weather, and navigational challenges seldom experienced by New England sailors, but the rewards are unmatched natural beauty and adventures second to none. For some, it is a rite of passage, allowing one to say that you’ve truly experienced the coast of Maine.

R.J. Rubadeau admits to a five-decade love affair with sailing boats and the special people who wander about aboard them. His 93-year-old wooden ketch Dog Star cruises Maine each summer, crewed by three generations of his family. His book, “Bound for Roque Island,” would be a fun addition to any ship’s library. This itinerary comes from the Cruising Club of America’s free online “Cruising Guide to Maine” guides.cruisingclub.org).

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