Want to Build Your Own Climbing-Wellness Retreat? Head to This Thai Village.

When I started climbing, practicing yoga, and backpacking, I heard of a beach town where I could build my own wellness retreat. It was a place where the water was turquoise, the boats long-tailed, and over 700 climbing routes existed. Mornings could be spent eating banana pancakes and climbing limestone, late afternoons getting Thai massages and practicing yoga—all for less than $800 a week. This unicorn of a place? Ao Nang, Krabi in Thailand, just across the water from Railay.

I went with my sister and friend a few years ago, and indeed, our trip was filled with climbing, yoga, massages, and healthy food—all on the cheap. It turns out the rumors were true.

Recently, more people seem to be traveling to Ao Nang to combine climbing and wellness. Arisa Sanelom, the owner of local studio Yoga Balance Thailand started her business two years ago. While her classes aren’t specifically for climbers, most of her students happen to be visiting climbers. “People do rock climbing and stay one month, two weeks and they come to my class,” Arisa says. She attributes this to common issues climbers experience: “I have many friends who have problems [with] the lower back and shoulder from climbing.”

Now, several years since my trip, I’ve climbed and practiced yoga throughout Asia and South America. And few places (if any) can beat Ao Nang for the cost, convenience, and the variety of wellness offerings. Most climbing guides and wellness practitioners also speak English, removing the language barrier.

Here’s what to know to build your own climbing-wellness retreat in Ao Nang, Thailand.

The Climbing Scene and Seasons in Ao Nang

“Ao Nang” refers to the village of Ao Nang and the larger Krabi subdistrict, including the climbing areas of Railay (split into Railay West and Raily East) and Tonsai, reachable via a 15-30 minute longtail boat from Ao Nang Beach. The sailing time varies depending on your exact destination (which part of Railay, or Tonsai).

Though over 90 percent of the climbing here is sport, a handful of trad and bouldering routes are scattered throughout the three sites as well. Railay East and Tonsai also have top rope climbs. Routes are graded with the French system, ranging from 5a’s (5.7s) to 8c’s (5.14s) with plenty of 6a’s (5.10s) for intermediate climbers. For self-guided climbing, consider purchasing Basecamp Tonsai’s Guidebook once you arrive at the Basecamp Tonsai shop.

All of the climbing is on limestone karsts, usually overlooking a jungle or beach, and accessible year-round. The best time to climb is the dry season, which starts at the end of November and runs through April, when there’s less heat and humidity. This is also the high season for tourism, so the downside is you might find the Ao Nang area more crowded. April and May are extremely hot. May through October is the rainy season, but still allows for plenty of opportunities to climb. It usually rains in the afternoons and evenings, so plan to climb in the mornings. (I went in July and was able to climb as much as I wanted.)

Ao Nang Climbing Gear and Tips

For sport climbing in the Ao Nang area, take at least a 200-foot (60m) rope, 16 quickdraws, a belay device, a helmet, a harness, and shoes. You’ll also want to bring lots of chalk and a dry bag—especially in the rainy season. Should you forget something, multiple local shops rent and sell gear. Facebook groups like Rock Climbing in Thailand. Krabi. Railay Beach can help you find climbing partners if you’re going solo.

As a newer climber, I opted for a guided group climb with equipment and transportation provided. I booked with King Climber’s, one of the first climbing schools in Thailand that’s been operating for over 25 years. They offer half-day, full-day, and multi-day climbing courses. I booked both the half and full days, which gave me three climbing sessions.

Wellness Offerings in Ao Nang

Of the many yoga offerings in Ao Nang, Yoga Balance has classes both at their studio, as well as seasonal classes on the beach in both Ao Nang and Railay. Classes are hatha vinyasa style, last for 90 minutes, and most are about $15. Arisa’s classes also focus on pranayama (breath work). As a climber herself, Arisa knows how to tailor classes to limber up climbers’ hips and shoulders.

After my third climbing session, I booked a Thai massage at Blooming Massage at Golden Beach Resort. One hour cost me just under $6, and I felt so relaxed, I fell asleep for a bit. For a fancier place with even more spa services, like facials and other skin treatments, go to Royal Palm Spa. I also recommend south baths for relieving tension stored in the body from climbing (and life in general). D Tree Yoga Studio occasionally offers sessions with Tibetan singing bowls.

Ao Nang Accommodations

While most climbers stay in Railay and Tonsai, consider staying in Ao Nang for easy access to wellness and dining options, not to mention consistent electricity, which isn’t guaranteed in Railay and Tonsai. Ao Nang also has plenty of family-friendly and resort options for romantic getaways, should you want to go with your family or partner.

Since we were backpacking, I booked most of our stay at the Goodwill Resort Krabi, a clean, no-frills guesthouse a 15-minute walk from the beach. However, my sister wanted some luxury. We compromised by spending one night at the Avani Ao Nang Cliff Krabi Resort. My sister’s favorite feature was our balcony’s bathtub from which we could see the bay, from which dramatic karsts rose. This resort was only an eight-minute walk to the beach, and since the three of us split the room cost, we each paid $80 for a luxury stay with a buffet breakfast included.

Food in Ao Nang

Food in Ao Nang is generally light and fresh. Most meals are priced between $3-9. For exceptionally healthy food, dine at plant-based restaurant Cooper’s Farm2Plate in the eco resort Anana. Most ingredients come from the onsite farm, and the menu consists of burgers, stews, curries, and smoothies.

For budget options, Muslim Street (the road leading to the Ao Nang Al-Munuawarah Mosque) hosts vendors selling curries, fresh juices, and halal food. For the Thai backpacker staple of banana pancakes, walk along the main street, Road 4203, and order from one of the many pancake stalls.

 

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