Weekend Whipper: How to Make the “World’s Hardest 5.8” Even Harder? Try it at Night

Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com. 

Scenic, isolated viewpoints are hard to beat, and there’s arguably no better spot in North Carolina for climbers than the iconic Looking Glass rock. At least that’s what Chris Zammit and Adam Fleming figured, some July fourths ago, when they set out late on a route nicknamed The World’s Hardest 5.8 (5.10a) to watch the fireworks from up high.

“I had already climbed this pitch, but Chris wanted to give it a go,” Fleming wrote to Climbing. “There’s a perfect 0.3 cam placement right before the crux move (a rockover onto a high foot), but that doesn’t make it any easier or less scary! Chris made two or three more attempts after this fall before we decided to bail on our gear anchor. I went back … the next morning to retrieve our gear.”

Fleming, who is an AMGA rock guide, shared some useful lessons he learned during this night ascent:

1. Be mindful of your foot and leg placement. Avoid getting the rope in a position that would cause you to invert during a fall. The climber did an excellent job in this regard.
2. Assisted braking devices are nice. The belayer got yarded around while catching this fall. An ABD helped keep the climber secure as the belayer has a natural instinct to protect themself.
3. Make sure your anchor will stay secure in all directions it could be loaded. Active protection (i.e. cams) are more likely to hold in multiple orientations than passive pro (i.e. nuts), but they’re not guaranteed. Consider placing more protection to account for shifts in the anticipated direction of load.
4. Consider using a Fixed Point Lead Belay when the pitch traverses off the belay. With the knowledge and skills I have now, I definitely would have used a FPLB. Had I not been worried about how I’d be pulled when catching a fall, I would have been much more comfortable as a belayer and would have been able to further prioritize the safety of the climber. While the FPLB is an uncommon technique in the US, it’s quite popular in Europe. However, it does require certain considerations and knowledge to correctly implement; seek qualified instruction before attempting a FPLB.

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