DOUG SCOTT 1941-2020
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – is saddened to hear about the death of legendary British mountaineer Doug Scott.
Doug Scott passed away in the early hours of Monday 7 December at the age of 79. Confirming the news, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), for whom Scott was a patron, paid tribute on its website.
Scott was awarded honorary membership of the UIAA during the federation’s 2020 General Assembly in October.
Doug Scott’s illustrious climbing career included 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia, a considerable number on new routes or for the first time in Alpine Style. An integral part of the first successful British Expedition to Everest, Scott reached the summit of 40 peaks including the top of the highest summits on all seven continents.
As the BMC writes: “Two of his climbs, in particular, stand out: the first ascent of the South West face of Everest with Dougal Haston in 1975, where the pair survived an open bivouac at 8,760 metres, and the first ascent of Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) in 1977. On the Ogre, Scott broke both legs and one of his partners, Chris Bonington, broke ribs, resulting in one of the most epic descents in mountaineering.”
Demonstrated in his longstanding stewardship of Community Action Nepal (CAN), Scott invested significant time and passion in directly supporting over 45 projects in Nepal with a focus on education, health and improving the working conditions of those whose lives depend on the trekking industry.
Doug Scott also lent significant support to the UIAA through his roles with the Mountaineering Commission and Management Committee. His extensive works of literature include a seminal paper for the UIAA, the Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing, an important reminder about the need to preserve the ethics, traditions and styles of climbing.
A full tribute to Doug Scott will be published shortly.
Main photo: BMC/Chris Bonington (and Vertebrate Publishing)
Tributes to Doug Scott:
BMC
Rock & Ice