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News

03 June 2018

Two Expert Climbers Killed in Fall From El Cap’s Freeblast

03 Jun 2018 04:43 Paulin, Ari

On the morning of June 2 at 8 a.m., while speed climbing on the lower pitches of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan—a section called Freeblast—two highly experienced climbers, Tim Klein and Jason Wells, were involved in a fatal accident.

Livestreams: IFSC World Cup 2018 Hachioji—Bouldering

03 Jun 2018 01:46 Paulin, Ari

The fifth event of the 2018 World Cup season will take place on June 2-3 in Hachioji, Japan. Watch bouldering semi-finals and finals below. Missed the previous events? Check out our recaps from Meiringen, Moscow, Chongqing, and Tai'an to get up to speed.

Ben Hanna: Man, Myth…or Hulk?

01 Jun 2018 23:47 Paulin, Ari

Witnessing Ben Hanna, 19, from Santa Fe, New Mexico, on the rock is like going to a punk show. Everything starts out normally, with tickets, drinks, and a sound check, but then the atmosphere suddenly turns aggressive, intense, and unpredictable.

Intro to Speed Climbing: Two Beginner Drills

31 May 2018 22:43 Paulin, Ari

In 2013 The International Olympic Committee (IOC) rejected a bid for the inclusion of climbing in the 2020 Olympics. But after being swept to the gutter, the sport cranked its way up onto the 2020 program, thanks to a new initiative that gave host city of Tokyo several additional slots to fill.

Review: NW Alpine Black Spider Hoody

31 May 2018 19:34 Paulin, Ari

NW Alpine sent us the Black Spider Hoody and their Volo Pant last autumn, and I set aside the Hoody to test as it was just the right size and the sort of lightweight base or mid-layer that’s perfect for winter cragging in Colorado’s Front Range, where the weather fluctuates wildly and rapidly with .

CABaret ce 2 juin & 24H de Freyr ces 2 et 3 juin

31 May 2018 09:30 Club alpin belge

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Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Break Nose Speed Record, Will Attempt Sub-2-Hour Ascent

31 May 2018 00:15 Paulin, Ari

Earlier today, Alex Honnold reclaimed the speed record for the Nose on El Capitan, climbing the historic route with Tommy Caldwell in 2 hours, 10 minutes, and 15 seconds. The pair has been working on the project for weeks in a determined effort to beat the time of 2:19:44, set by Brad Gobright and .

Peter Whittaker's 100,000-foot Promise

29 May 2018 22:04 Paulin, Ari

Peter Whittaker was just 12 years old when he first climbed Mount Rainier, the storied Pacific Northwest volcano, home to the Fifty Classic’s Liberty Ridge and a host of other alpine testpieces. Back then, tweens were still a rarity on the 14,411-foot summit—Washington’s high point—yet Whittaker’s .

Checklist: How to Shake Off Complacency to Avoid Accidents

29 May 2018 21:50 Paulin, Ari

It’s 2 p.m., and you’ve granted yourself a quick afternoon cragging sesh. What could go wrong? Lots, it turns out. Casual cragging is anything but—the law of gravity still applies, just like it would with more “serious” all-day objectives.

Review: Mountain Hardwear Multi-Pitch 16 Pack

29 May 2018 21:07 Paulin, Ari

Years ago while living in Italy, I crossed the border into France with an Italian friend to try a multi-pitch route in the Alps near Briançon. We were young, a little crazy, and grossly under-prepared.

Newsletter Week 26

29 May 2018 18:21 Lancaster University Mountaineering Club

Dear LUMC members,

Such as dictated by the universe, exam season has indeed coincided with yet more sweltering heat, so hot it in fact melted the webmaster's brain and they forgot to send the weekly email.... Many a thing has occurred recently however...

30/06/2018 to 05/07/2018 - Learn2Lead Course #3: New Dates

29 May 2018 07:54 Chockstone

Location: Mt Arapiles/Djurite
Leader: Michael O'Reilly
Details: The third Learn2Lead Course for 2018 has been rescheduled. The course will now run at Mt Arapiles/Djurite from the end of June until early July.

Peaches Preaches: What Comes Around Goes Around

26 May 2018 00:01 Paulin, Ari

"You walk without a sense of purpose," a Berkeley bar manager once told James "Peaches" Lucas before firing him. A dedicated climber who spent 15 years living out of caves, tents, and then a Saturn station wagon to pursue the sport...

Interview: Adrian Ballinger on His Lightning-Fast Ascents of Cho Oyu and Everest

25 May 2018 22:34 Paulin, Ari

On May 20, Adrian Ballinger, owner and head guide of Alpenglow Expeditions, reached the summit of Mount Everest along with nine other members of his team—one other guide, five Sherpas, and three clients.

Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson to Step Down to Pursue Global Conservation

24 May 2018 17:52 Paulin, Ari

Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that protects America’s climbing, announced today that Executive Director Brady Robinson will step down after a celebrated eleven years at the helm of the climbing advocacy organization.

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