Scotland I (2017)

This is first in a series of articles that documents my international golf travels. Up until 2017, I had only played golf in the United States and once in the Bahamas. This trip proved to be transformational in my view on playing golf internationally. Since then, I have increased the number of countries I have played in to 15 with the anticipation of adding 3 more in 2025. See my entire list of courses played here. It has been an incredible journey and one that I hope continues for years to come.

My first trip to Scotland was a result of my international travel loving brother-in-law asking me in 2016 what would it take to get me to travel to Scotland with him. This discussion came while watching the 2016 Open Championship duel between Henrik Stenson and Phil Mickelson at Royal Troon. My immediate response was if we could play the Old Course then I would go realistically thinking in my naive mind we would never get a tee time. I remember the back and forth battle between Stenson and Mickelson on back nine at Troon wishing it would never end. We were unsuccessful in getting a tee time to the Old Course through the fall application process that year but were able to get a tee time on Royal Troon. So, we ended up building this trip around Royal Troon. Planning a trip like this is really fun exploring the options and researching course and places to stay. As luck would have it, we ended up entering the daily ballot for a tee time on the Old Course and were fortunate to be selected. It ended up conflicting with a tee time we had at the Castle Course but the St. Andrews Links Trust is very accommodating and we were able to change the Castle Course to another day. The key lesson learned from our first trip to Scotland is that you need to be flexible if trying to play the Old Course. The 2017 Scotland I Itinerary included Dundonald Links, Royal Troon, Prestwick, Carnoustie, Kingsbarns, The Old Course, and The Castle Course.

Dundonald Links is a modern links golf course located in Ayrshire, Scotland, designed by renowned architect Kyle Phillips. Phillips also designed Kingsbarns. Built in 2003 and opened in 2005, it features a par 72 layout that stretches over 7,100 yards, making it a challenging yet accessible course for golfers of all skill levels. The course is noted for its generous fairways, undulating greens, and strategic bunkering, providing a true test of links golf. Situated near the Firth of Clyde, the course offers stunning views and is conveniently located close to Prestwick International Airport and in the vicinity of other courses like Royal Troon, Prestwick, Western Gailes, and Trump Turnberry making it a great course to add to a western Scotland itinerary. One hole to note is Hole 11, a short Par 3 with four bunkers and steep slopes require good distance control. We played this round the same day that we arrived and I remember the adrenaline kicking in after only a few hours of sleep on the plane. It lasted until about the 13th hole, then fatigue set in but it was an amazing start to the trip. We stayed in Galsgow this first night at the Heritage Hotel and took in some sight seeing the next day including the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Scotland Street School Museum, Stirling Castle, and Doune Castle. It was at the Kelvingrove museum where we got to see the Christ of Saint John of the Cross painting by Salvador Dalí. We then drove to Ayrshire and stayed at The Marine Hotel overlooking the Royal Troon course where we would be playing the next day.

Royal Troon Golf Club, located on the Ayrshire coast of Scotland, is a prestigious golf course with a rich history dating back to its founding in 1878. Originally established as a six-hole course by Charles Hunter, a protégé of Old Tom Morris, it quickly gained popularity and was expanded to 18 holes by George Strath in 1884. In 1978, Royal Troon was granted royal status by Queen Elizabeth II during its centenary celebration, further solidifying its reputation as one of the premier golfing destinations globally. The club has hosted The Open Championship multiple times since it first took place there in 1923. One hole of note is the Par 3 8th yard known as the “Postage Stamp”. The tee is elevated and the shot is played over a gully to a long and very narrow green set into the side of a large sandhill. Two bunkers protect the left side of the green (including the infamous Coffin bunker) while a large crater bunker shields the approach. Any mistake on the right will find one of the two deep bunkers with near vertical faces. The ball must find the green with the tee-shot to prevent a big number. Another hole of note is the Par 4 11th known as “The Railway”, named after the railway line, which runs alongside the hole on the right side its entire length and comes within a few yards of the green near the hole. Thick course runs along the left side of the hole requiring accuracy off the tee and on the approach shot. My personal highlights from this round include parring the 8th and making my first birdie in Scotland on the difficult stroke index 1 11th hole. Additionally, the course features stunning views of the Firth of Clyde along several holes. The club consists of 45 holes across multiple layouts, including the Old Course and the Portland Course. Here we received our first real dose of Scottish weather with the rain and wind affecting play on and off all day. Also, here I realized the coolness of courses that have trains running by as well as bells to ring to let fellow golfers know they can hit.

Prestwick Golf Club, founded in 1851, is a located in Prestwick, South Ayrshire, Scotland, approximately 30 miles southwest of Glasgow. It is renowned for being the birthplace of the Open Championship, which it hosted 24 times from 1860 to 1925. The original course was a 12-hole layout designed by Old Tom Morris, who also served as the club’s first Keeper of the Green. Over the years, the course evolved into its current 18-hole configuration, maintaining its classic links style characterized by undulating fairways and challenging bunkers. The course features a number of blind shots including the Par 5th “Himalayas” that requires a tee shot guided only by a rock on the hill picking the color depending on flag placement that day. Another hole of note includes the Par 4 “Alps” hole which is the oldest existing hole in championship golf. This hole features another blind tee shot and the green is protected by the massive Sahara bunker. More train sitings including along the first hole, known as “The Railway”. From here, we finished up our west coast visit and headed east with Carnoustie on deck. The distance between Prestwick and Carnoustie is 125 miles. Along the way, we stopped to tour the Culzean Castle. Culzean Castle overlooks the Firth of Clyde, near Maybole, Carrick, in South Ayrshire, on the west coast of Scotland. It is the former home of the Marquess of Ailsa, the chief of Clan Kennedy, but is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland. Also along the way is when we learned of Tiger’s arrest for DUI making the front page of “The Scotsman”. Needless to say, this was the main topic our caddies wanted to talk about.

Carnoustie Golf Links, located in Angus, Scotland, is renowned as one of the premier golf destinations in the world. Established in 1842, it is one of the oldest golf clubs globally and features four courses: the historic Championship Course, the Burnside Course, the Buddon Links, and a short course known as The Nestie. The Championship Course is particularly famous for its difficulty, often referred to as “Golf’s Greatest Test.” It has hosted the Open Championship eight times since 1931, with the most recent event in 2018. The course is known for its challenging finishing holes, which include the notorious Barry Burn—a water hazard that has thwarted many players. Designed initially by Allan Robertson and later modified by Old Tom Morris and James Wright, it stretches to 7,402 yards and has a par of 72 (71 for The Open). It was on our way to Carnoustie that we learned we had had been selected through the daily ballot to play the Old Course. At this time notification was received via email and I vividly remember checking my email every few minutes and ultimately the giddiness we had when we received the notification. I remember how excited we were and that we nearly had an accident shortly thereafter as we let our guard down with our driver/navigator responsibilities. At this time it was hard to feel that this trip could get any better.

Kingsbarns Golf Links is a modern links golf course located seven miles south of St Andrews in Scotland, opened in 2000. Designed by Kyle Phillips and Mark Parsinen, the course is renowned for its spectacular sea views, with seven holes playing over or alongside the coastline. The course blends modern design with traditional links golf characteristics, offering breathtaking coastal scenery and a memorable golfing experience. The first thing that I noticed upon arrival and the first tee is how it seemed as though this course has been here forever. It fit right in with our first links experience in Scotland. The weather was very accommodating and the course was in incredible shape. Good caddies made for an amazing round and “warmup” for the Old Course. We stayed in St. Andrews for the last 2 days of this trip getting to take in the town and overall vibe of the Home of Golf. It is hard to put into words what the next 24 hours would entail getting to experience the town of St. Andrews and The Old Course.

Upon arrival in St. Andrews, it was immediately apparent the history and vibe was different than anywhere I had ever been. At this time of year it stays daylight here until around 10:00 pm each night. This provided an amazing opportunity to watch golfers come in on the 18th hole of the Old Course. It also provide to walk the course and enjoy a sunset unlike no other showing the course in all of its glory. A must visit thing to do upon arrival is a visit to the St. Andrews Cathedral and pay homage to Old Tom Morris at this gravesite. It is a spiritual level encounter for a golfer, one that is hard to describe. I highly recommend watching Tommy’s Honor prior to your first visit to St. Andrews. The Old Course at St Andrews is considered the oldest golf course in the world and the “home of golf”, located in St Andrews, Scotland. Originally a 22-hole course with golfers playing ten holes twice, it was standardized to 18 holes in 1764, setting the global standard for golf course layout. Key Characteristics include a unique natural design that evolved over 500 years, a public course held in trust by the St Andrews Links Trust, and it hosts The Open Championship more than any other course, with 30 tournaments since 1873. Golf was first played on these links in the early 15th century, despite being temporarily banned by Scottish kings who felt it distracted from archery practice. The course features iconic elements like the Swilcan Bridge, Hell Bunker, and the challenging Road Hole. Notable features include extraordinarily large greens (nearly an acre in size), 112 sand bunkers, and its deep integration with the town of St Andrews, with streets and buildings forming part of the landscape. The Old Course did not disappoint. In fact, it exceeded my expectations. More on the Old Course in subsequent articles including playing it in reverse in 2024.

We played 27 holes at the Castle Course, our last day in Scotland. We had beautiful weather for the first 9 holes then we learned about the “haar’ the next 9 holes, and finally heavy rain and wind in our last 9 holes to get the full Scottish golf experience. We got to experience the “haar” over 27 holes at the Castle Course. In meteorology, “haar” refers to a type of cold sea fog. This phenomenon is most prevalent along the east coast of Scotland from April to September, occurring when warm air moves over the chilly North Sea. Haar typically forms over the water and is carried ashore by the wind. This process happens when warmer, moist air flows over the relatively cooler North Sea, leading to the condensation of moisture in the air and the formation of haar. Sea breezes and easterly winds then transport this fog onto the east coast of Scotland and North-East England, where it can extend several miles inland. This occurrence is particularly common during the UK summer, as land heating generates a sea breeze that brings haar from the ocean, resulting in significantly lower temperatures compared to areas just a few miles inland. We found the Castle Course to be a stern test in the best of weather but it was pure survival in the conditions we experienced it over the course of the day. It was a fitting conclusion to our first time in Scotland.