Hoof boots: what they’re for, who they suit, and how to get the fit right

Hoof boots are no longer the niche product for horses they once were. Once mainly thought of as emergency “spare pair of tyres” or therapy boots, they’re now widely used for hacking, rehabilitation and barefoot transitions — and for some horses, they’ve become an everyday part of life.

But they’re also a piece of kit where success depends heavily on understanding what you’re buying and why. Fit matters more than brand, and expectations need to be realistic. Get it right, and the best hoof boots can be transformative; get it wrong, and you can end up with rubbing, twisting, or a particularly expensive cupboard full of boots that almost worked.

Here’s an introduction to hoof boots, how they’re commonly used, and how to choose them wisely, with advice from farrier Tom Broadbridge, who is developing Pioneer Sports Hoof Boots, and hoof boot advisor Liz Hapgood of Hoof Bootique.

What are hoof boots?

Tom describes hoof boots simply as “trainers for horses’ feet”.

They’re removable hoof protection – something you put on when the horse needs it and take off again afterwards, rather than something attached permanently to the hoof. That flexibility is a big part of their appeal.

Why do people use hoof boots?

Liz says many owners first come to hoof boots when they’re struggling with a horse.

“It’s often a last port of call,” she explains – perhaps a horse with intermittent lameness, footiness, or one that hasn’t thrived in traditional shoeing. For others, boots come into play when shoes are removed, and the horse needs protection while adapting.

Common reasons for using hoof boots

• Supporting a horse through a barefoot transition
• Hacking on hard, stony or mixed terrain
• Horses with thin soles or sensitivity
• Rehabilitation cases where pads and cushioning help
• Older horses, who may feel more comfortable with shock absorption

Liz is clear that boots aren’t inherently limiting: “You should be able to do anything in hoof boots that you can do with metal shoes.” But she adds an important note of caution – the more you ask of them, the more critical correct fitting becomes.

Different types of hoof boots

Tom finds it useful to think of riding boots in two broad groups, pictured above.

More forgiving, wrap-style boots

These have a solid base with a more flexible upper. Tom compares them to wellies: they’ll accommodate a wider range of hoof shapes and can be useful when hooves are changing or when pads are needed.

More structured, close-fitting boots

These rely on close contact between the hoof wall and the inside of the boot. “This type needs to fit properly,” Tom says, because it’s the friction between hoof and boot that keeps it secure. He likens them to trainers – less forgiving, but better suited to faster or more demanding work when the fit is right.

Neither type is universally better. The right choice depends on your horse’s hooves now, what you’re doing in them, and how much change you expect over the coming months.

Fitting hoof boots

Both experts return to this repeatedly: fit matters more than anything – and length is the hard bit.

Liz says most people manage hoof width fairly well, but “measuring the length is the hardest thing to get right”. The challenge is measuring the weight-bearing surface accurately without including heel bulbs – and in hooves with underrun or compromised heels, knowing where that measurement should end can be tricky.

Why does it matter? Liz compares it to wearing shoes that are too long: your heel lifts, your foot moves, and your stability changes. In a hoof boot, that can mean twisting, rubbing or boots coming off.

Her advice is simple: if you’re unsure, ask for help. Hoof boots are a specialist product, and getting the length wrong is one of the most common reasons they fail.

When to measure for hoof boots

Liz advises measuring after a fresh trim, or within around two weeks of one. Measuring a long, flared hoof can lead to boots that distort as the hoof grows.

Tom adds that measuring at more than one point – for example, mid-cycle as well as immediately after a trim – can help owners understand the extent of variation and manage their expectations.

Hoof boot size charts

Size charts are a useful starting point, but Tom cautions that length and width alone don’t account for hoof shape.

“You might have the measurements right,” he explains, “but you don’t know how the shape of the hoof compares to the inside shape of the boot.”

Liz expands on this: the widest part of the hoof isn’t always in the same place as the widest part of the boot. Even when measurements match on paper, the hoof may not physically seat correctly inside the shell.

This is why so many nearly-new boots end up for resale.

Hoof boot fit kits and expert advice

Both Tom and Liz strongly recommend using fit kits wherever possible. These allow you to try boot shells on the hoof, helping you see what genuinely fits – not just what looks right on a chart.

Liz’s approach is to narrow options using measurements, then compare different brands and sizes side by side. Her key message will sound familiar to anyone who’s dealt with saddle fitting: choose the boot that fits your horse, not the brand you like.

“Often,” she says, “you end up buying a boot you didn’t think you wanted, because it’s the one that actually suits the hoof.”

If you can’t access fit kits in person, Liz recommends seeking advice rather than guessing. Clear photos and accurate measurements allow experienced advisors to assess factors that numbers alone can’t show – such as heel height, symmetry and hoof angle.

How to check fit at home

Liz’s go-to check is the “twist test”. With the boot fastened, pick the foot up as if you were picking it out and try to twist the boot.

You want the hoof and boot to move together. A small amount of movement can be acceptable, but if the boot twists freely, something isn’t right.

She also highlights a common misconception: twisting doesn’t always mean the boot is too big. Boots can twist when they’re too small, too – for example, if the hoof is too wide for the base and can’t sit properly down into it.

Tom adds another practical check: look at the heel bulbs and hairline when you remove the boots. Before rubbing becomes sore, you’ll often see the hair being dragged or disturbed.

Introducing hoof boots

Even with a good fit, both experts advise building up gradually.

Tom’s advice is straightforward: if you want to trot in boots, walk in them first. Let the horse adapt to the different feel underfoot and monitor how they move.

Liz notes that some horses end up with more than one pair for different jobs – for example, an easy everyday option, something more secure for long hacks, or lighter boots for schooling on hard ground.

How long do hoof boots last?

Liz stresses that lifespan depends on use, terrain and how the horse moves. As a broad guide, six to 12 months is often quoted, but many boots last up to two years or more. Some models also allow worn parts to be replaced, extending their useful life.

The takeaway

Hoof boots can be a genuinely useful tool, but they’re not a one-size-fits-all purchase. Accurate measurement, realistic expectations and careful fitting are what make the difference.

Take the time to understand your horse’s hooves, introduce boots gradually, and keep reassessing fit as things change. Done properly, they can offer flexibility and comfort that suits a wide range of horses and riders.

Quick checklist

Before you buy

• Measure after a fresh trim (or within two weeks)
• Pay particular attention to hoof length
• Use expert advice or fit kits if possible

When checking fit

• Do the twist test – hoof and boot should move together
• Watch for heel rubbing or disturbed hair
• Remember: twisting can mean too small or too big

When using boots

• Build up gradually: walk before faster work
• Check fit regularly – hooves change over time
• Expect some trial and adjustment, especially during transitions

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