This Vintage-Inspired Dive Watch Looks Better Than Ever

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Vintage dive watches are having a major moment—and DOXA is doubling down with its latest release. The new DOXA SUB 200 II takes the brand’s cult-favorite diver and updates it with a larger case, refined proportions, and five bold dial colors. It’s a modern upgrade that keeps everything watch collectors love—while making it easier to wear every day.

Inspired by models from the 1960s, the new diver keeps the same classic SUB shape, now in a 44mm width (up from the standard SUB 200’s 42mm). That increase should allow for better legibility under water, enhancing its tool watch cache, but a short lug-to-lug dimension allows the total proportions to feel closer to a 42mm watch. DOXA has also reduced the height a full millimeter, making it easier to fit under a shirt cuff and a better wear day to day. 

The case is constructed from a solid block of high-grade 316L stainless steel and is water-resistant to 200 meters. The unidirectional bezel is fitted with a lightweight, corrosion-resistant, aluminum insert with a classic diver-timer scale. The piece is capped  with a scratch-resistant, anti-reflective domed ‘glass box’ sapphire crystal.

The SUB 200 II comes in five dial colors—black, gray, blue, red, and green—that use gradient tones to bolster wrist presence. Four of the hues feature a traditional silver stainless case. On the other wrist, the “redcoral” model is finished in black with a diamond like carbon (DLC) coating. DOXA offers each color on either a Milanese mesh bracelet or a new textured rubber strap with a fun retro-diving vibe. A Sellita SW200 automatic movement runs the SUB 200 II’s timekeeping. The hardy calibre offers a 38 hour power reserve, hacking seconds, and a quick set date.     

DOXA’s SUB 200 II is available for preorder now at DOXA.com. The four silver stainless steel retail for $1,750 on a steel bracelet and $1,690 on a rubber strap. The black DLC Redcoral runs $1,890 on DLC steel and $1,790 on rubber.