Inverpolly - an epic journey from Cam Loch to the Sea
This is the tale of our Easter 2019 adventure, paddling 13 lochs with 11 portages over 9 days. A group of seven canoes and a bunch of kids travelled from loch to loch, linked by some tough portages over the hills and over the bogs, with wonderful wild camps and even the occasional rest day.
We met in Inverness and drove to the Northwest Highlands and the mystical land of Inverpolly, one of my favourite places in the world. This landscape in Assynt is stunning, with a bewitching beauty that leaves its imprint on the souls of those who journey through it. The wonderfully shaped mountains rise steeply and abruptly from the vast expanses of moorland and myriad of lochs and lochans.
Our actual route.
Day 1 Cam Loch and a Change of Plan
Launching the canoes on the Ledmore River, below the hamlet of Elphin, gives the sense of leaving all civilisation behind. I hope the newcomers to our Easter trip know what they are letting themselves in for! Nigel and his teenage son Matt joined us in their pink canoe and Pete and his teenage son Nick in their red Hou canoe. It turns out that teenagers are the best thing ever to bring on a trip like this! They did some major lugging, including lots of my gear.
Pete and Nick.
As we set off and paddled quietly along the river, between the majestic Cul Mor and Suilven, it feels like we are travelling through a truly ancient landscape. With the sunshine and blue sky, the views were spectacular.
The mighty Suilven looming in the distance as we paddled down Cam Loch.
We had decided not to do the portage round the waterfall and fish farm to Loch Veyatie as that route was too normal. We intended to paddle to the head of the loch and portage to Veyatie from there. After all, why portage a few hundred metres downhill, when you can portage over 2km uphill instead. Cam Loch is well worth paddling for its wilderness feel at the western end and the dramatic setting amidst Suilven and Canisp. We were also looking forward to camping on the beach at the far end.
The wind was behind us and we made fast progress down Cam Loch. However, the tail wind was increasing, and the waves were getting bigger. We stopped for a break in a sunny, warm, sheltered bay to check the map and discuss our options.
It was clear that we would get no shelter if we carried on to our intended camp at the head of the loch. The closer we got to the end, the more spray we could see from the waves crashing into the rocks and the shore. None of us fancied surfing and camping in the full force of the wind. We decided to hug the southern shore and paddle from bay to bay to reach the start of the Keyhole Portage.
We discussed the wind and weather forecast. Perhaps it was wrong! Today was supposed to be light winds, increasing in strength over the next three days. Darren, Mal and Rob scouted ahead on foot and told us the Keyhole Cove was sheltered but we would struggle to get around the point. Our first portage was a short one over the rise and down to the bay. The wind had swung round slightly so the bay was no longer the mirror calm water that we had hoped for.
Keyhole Cove Camp.
We, and Mal, opted for a flat pitch but a windy one, next to the water whilst the others pitched their tents in the slight shelter of the ridge and lots of tussocks. Rob, Liz and the boys opted to sleep under a tarp.
Pete had prepared pulled pork for our first meal. We enjoyed freshly cooked carrots and broccoli and pulled pork rolls with apple sauce. As well as the vegetables, Pete had even brought the apples to make the sauce! He had been led to believe that our first paddle would be an easy, calm paddle of a couple of hours at the most. Otherwise, he may have thought twice about portaging pounds of apples, carrots and broccoli. He is now Portage Pete.
Cartmel sticky toffee pudding for dessert went down well and lightened Lizs food bag considerably!
Day 2 Over the hills and oer the bogs
The windy night had turned into a rather blustery day. Not to worry, we werent paddling anywhere. Instead we looked at the map and chose to do a longer portage by Creagan Mor to try and find some shelter on the other side of the hill and enough room for all 12 of us to camp.
Breakfast cooked on Nigels new purchase from Tamarack. An excellent piece of kit, perfect for portaging. We all have one of these but as Nigel is new to the group, and his grill is extra-large, he agreed to bring his.
After a breakfast of bacon, sausage, haggis and cheese wraps we broke camp and started portage number two. The bogs were mainly dry, with the odd knee-deep bit, but there were plenty of tussocks and mounds of heather to make walking very slow. Not to mention the weight of all our gear, food, wine boxes and many, many kgs of logs! I could hardly lift my blue barrel.
A long portage.
Each section of the portage was at least three trips. I was extremely grateful to the two awesome teenagers who dragged and pulled canoes over the heather and carried loads of gear for everyone (including my barrel and cool bag).
Nigel, always smiling.
Awesome teenagers.
Rob and Liz.
The three kids also did their share.
All still smiling. I think everyone is starting to love portaging.
The barrel and cool bag were always left to last, everyone hoping that it wouldnt be their turn to carry them!
We stopped for lunch and wondered if we would find somewhere to camp on the other side. Tobey played Mals guitar; the Jurassic Park theme tune was quite appropriate for this landscape.
So far, we have paddled for less than an hour and after hours of portaging, Pete was beginning to doubt our sanity. As our paths crossed on the portages, I asked him if the trip was living up to his expectations and he just kind of laughed in hysteria! I think he was expecting a little more paddling on our canoe trip. Mal and I tried to keep our giggles to ourselves.
Lots of these caterpillars on the grass. I think it is a Drinker Moth caterpillar.
Darren explored ahead and found a route down to Veyatie. After a quick, steep descent we reached a small lochan and decided we could paddle across if each canoe could be dragged out of the mud at the other side. I wonder if anyone else has paddled here?
It was slightly sheltered here, and we found enough flat space for all the tents on what would normally be a bog. The land surrounding the tents was mainly huge tussocks. Nobody could seem to stay on their feet.
Camp 2 Bog Camp at Lochan nan Niall
The tents and the kitchen tarp were soon up and Mal was making Chinese chicken for tea.
The wine was going down well but we were tired, and it was an early night for most. We were intending to paddle Loch Veyatie down to the camp on Fionn Loch tomorrow.
As I was getting into my tent, I heard a loud splash and Nigels voice say, I told you to put a canoe there! Lots of giggling from Matthew. Nigel had decided (for reasons only known to him) to walk into the lochan before getting into his tent. Luckily, he saw the funny side, as I was doubled up laughing. He had gone in up to his thighs, and in fresh, clean clothes too! Hence the unnamed water is now known as Lochan nan Niall (Gaelic for Nigel).
To be continued ..