A Masterclass in Screaming Your Way Off the Crux

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It’s one thing to read about why power-screaming can help you climb harder. But nothing beats trying it out for yourself.

Earlier this spring, Patrick Allen took a lead lap on Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b), one of Joshua Tree’s most famous single-pitch trad routes. This route is widely known for its long, calf-burning stem corner, which requires delicate balance and rewards slow, controlled movement. Near the top, however, Coarse and Buggy switches it up, introducing a power layback up to a reachy final jug.

That’s where this Weekend Whipper begins. Allen is mid-layback, fighting the pump, shifting his feet to try to stay upright.

To hold on, he goes full Ondra, with three thundering power screams, one after the other.

Unfortunately, it doesn’t work. Allen drops about 15 feet, landing neatly in the stem corner seam.

“So close, dude,” says Allen Warner, who filmed the fall.

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.

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