You Probably Shouldn’t Be Rappelling With a Grigri. This Is the One Method That’s Acceptable.

Ah, the beloved Grigri. More than ever, we climbers seem enamored with this (and similar) assisted braking belay devices. Far and away the most popular style of belay device I see used in gyms and at crags is some version of a single-rope, assisted braking device. If it’s not the Petzl Grigri, it’s the Petzl Neox, Edelrid Pinch, Mad Rock Lifeguard, or a similar assisted braking belay device. And for good reason—they’re fantastic!

The benefits of these devices are obvious for belaying a climber. But what about rappelling with a Grigri or a similar assisted braking belay device? Are these devices good enough to be a “silver bullet” solution, regardless of terrain and circumstance? Or have we chosen to prioritize the benefits of these devices without fully understanding their drawbacks in unexpected scenarios?

Specialized tools vs. versatile tools: The drawbacks

As a career mountain guide who has spent tens of thousands of hours helping others become independent and level up, I believe it’s a red flag when climbers consistently use tools and develop techniques that are more niche at the expense of those more universally applicable. Climbing is all about problem-solving, and it’s in our best interest to have several options to draw from when the unexpected occurs.

I’ve noticed that more and more climbers are choosing to leave their traditional plate-style belay devices (i.e., a Black Diamond ATC) behind and carry just a Grigri—even on long, committing routes.

While this approach works well on the way up, it leaves us with far fewer options on the descent or in a partner rescue scenario. The most obvious shortcoming? The inability to build a traditional two-strands, retrievable rappel.

Simul-rappelling with a Grigri

My bet is that Grigri popularity is one of the main reasons so many climbers have recently adopted simul-rappeling as their go-to descent method. I think Grigri familiarity combined with more solid bolted rappel anchors has made this style of rappel more reasonable and attractive in recent years.

Simul-rappeling involves counter-balancing with your partner, each on a single rope strand on opposite sides of the rap anchor. However, familiarity with anything hyper-specific is a double-edged sword. Once familiar and proficient with any tool or technique, we’re often more likely to use it, even if not the “best” option for a particular set of circumstances.

While I personally believe that the limited options in the event of something unexpected occurring greatly outweigh the marginal (if any!) speed gains of simul-rapping, I’ll leave the details of that conversation for another time. For now, if you choose to simul-rappel, at least close the rope system with stopper knots. You should also, of course, make sure that the anchor is strong enough and reliable enough to support two climbers. That’s a topic for another time, but this should consist of visually inspecting the anchor, then having both climbers weight and test it while still backed up.

Because of all of this, I strongly encourage climbers to always carry an ATC-style device, even if you don’t plan to rappel. Setting up a standard retrievable rappel on two strands with a hands-free backup should be a foundational skill for any climber.

What is a reepschnur rappel?

With that said, a “next level” and useful skill is knowing how to set yourself up on a retrievable rappel using just a Grigri. The official name for this rappel is the “reepschnur,” which is German for “rope block.” You may have also heard it referred to as a “Grigri rappel” or “blocked Grigri rappel”.

The two most common scenarios where you might choose to descend via a reepschnur:

1. Dropping/forgetting your plate-style belay device (e.g., an ATC)
2. Using a pull cord or tagline with your belay plate (or Grigri, too)

But first, a big caveat: Before we get into the “how” of the reepschnur, it’s important to understand how unforgiving this technique is if done incorrectly. Several people have been killed in recent years from improperly rigged reepschnur rappels. As with rigging any rappel, it’s wise to have a personal tether that is long enough to remain loosely clipped to the anchor while you weight and verify your setup before committing to it.

How to rappel with a Grigri

To start the setup, you need a rappel anchor with rings, rapid links (also called “maillons”), or chains small enough that an overhand on a bight (or similar) in your climbing rope will jam against it without getting pulled through or inside. Most carabiners will be too big to block an overhand on a bight from passing through. The same goes for tree anchors or other sling/cord anchors without any rings at all. Rope diameter is also critical; a skinnier rope will create a smaller bight knot, requiring smaller ring(s) on the rappel anchor.

Step 1: Thread the rope

Thread the rope through the rings, links or chains to the halfway point. Close the rope system by tying knots in each end. I highly recommend a bi-pattern rope or clear middle mark.

Step 2: Tie a knot on one strand

On the strand of the rappel rope furthest from you, tie an overhand on a bight (or similar bulky/bight knot) just offset from the middle.

Step 3: Clip that strand to the other

Using a locking carabiner, clip that bight across to the rappel strand to the other side (your side) of the rappel rings/anchor; lock it.

Step 4: Set up your Grigri

Rig your Grigri on the strand opposite the bight knot. This is the strand hanging freely, on your side of the anchor, without a knot in it, and with a locker now clipped to it.

Step 5: Test your system

Do this step while still loosely tethered to the anchor! Slowly weight the Grigri. As you do, the bight knot will get pulled up into the anchor, “jamming” against the rappel ring. Make sure the knot cannot get pulled inside or through the rappel ring. If it does, consider replacing the overhand on a bight with a bulkier knot of similar style.

Step 6: Descend

Rappel to the ground or the next anchor.

Step 7: Retrieve the rope

Pull the rope side that has the bight knot tied in it (this is the opposite strand from what you rapped on), making sure to untie the knot in the end of the rope.

For me, much of the joy of climbing comes from the choice to voluntarily do hard and dangerous things. But I don’t want to feel stressed out or cornered, forced to commit to a specific outcome for lack of options. I work hard to give myself a variety of tools and strategies for the way up, the way down, and for situations that might surprise me.

To that end, you’ll almost always see an ATC and Grigri on my harness. And you can be certain that I know how to rig traditional and reepschnur rappels, among others. Keep it tight out there!

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