Will Moss Becomes Youngest to Free the ‘Nose’ in a Day

He just started college—but unlike many 20-year-olds, he’s already found his niche.

Earlier this year, the University of Colorado student made history when he became the first person to flash Yosemite’s El Capitan in a day. One month before that, he made the hardest all-gear rope solo of all time, belaying himself up China Doll (5.14a R) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, just a few hours after learning how to lead rope solo.

Now, he’s joined the ranks of Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, and Connor Herson in holding one of the most coveted free climbing achievements in Yosemite. On November 1, Moss became the youngest and fourth person to ever free climb the Nose (5.14a; 3,000ft) in a day (NIAD), completing his ascent in 11 hours 48 minutes.

Moss trained extensively in preparation for attempting to flash Free Rider (5.13a; 2,900ft), and he prepared for the Nose with similar determination. What’s especially dizzying about Moss’ ascent is how little rehearsal and preparation it took for him to be ready to try to send the route in a day. All three of his predecessors sent the Nose over multiple days, big wall-style, before they attempted an in-a-day ascent. But Moss, instead, rehearsed the cruxes over multiple sessions and, when he felt ready, he tried to send the route from the ground in a day.

His first two attempts from the ground were stymied by wet conditions. “On the first attempt, I sent the Great Roof, but then I got rained off before I was able to try Changing Corners,” says Moss. “On the second attempt, the Roof was pretty wet, and I slipped off.”

On November 1, Moss made his third attempt at freeing the Nose from the ground. After just under twelve hours on the wall, he stood on top having freed every pitch on lead. Shortly after he got back down from the summit, I talked with Will about his impressive ascent.

Fullman: Have you always wanted to free the Nose? Was this the first goal you set after flashing Free Rider (5.13a; 2,900ft)?

Will Moss: I’ve always wanted to free the Nose in general after seeing the many films on it, but in the last couple years, Free Rider was first and foremost in my mind. But after Free Rider, the Nose seemed like the logical next step.

Fullman: I heard you wanted to go for an El Cap Free Double but couldn’t find a partner. Had you wanted to try the Double, or did it just cross your mind after sending the Nose?

Moss: Yeah, after sending the Changing Corners first go, it was looking really good to go for an El Cap Free Double. We were at the base of the final pitch at 10:15 a.m. and I was looking for partners for the Double because it seemed really feasible at that pace, but sadly, the final 12c pitch took me five goes to send. Then finally, I barely sent that pitch and split open my finger.

After topping out a little later than I thought and with a bloody finger, it seemed unlikely that I was going to be able to pull off the Double, so I just called off searching for a partner. But it’s definitely something I want to do someday. I’ve always been inspired by that insane feat by Tommy Caldwell. I don’t know if it’s going to happen this season. I have some other goals, but definitely, one day, I will be coming back for that.

Fullman: You do a lot of hard, heady trad climbing. How has that prepared you for free climbing on El Cap? Has anything else helped prepare you for El Cap specifically?

Moss: I think the hard climbing definitely helps with just having dealt with those runouts in the past. With the Great Roof, it’s just easier to try and send it without placing as much gear and just being okay with running it out—especially if it’s a clean and safe fall—rather than spending time and getting pumped pacing gear. Specifically, before coming here, I spent a lot of time climbing in Boulder Canyon, which definitely helped with climbing on El Cap. Mostly I just tried to get as much granite experience as I could.

Fullman: Did you enjoy the Free Rider or the Nose more? Which route is the better free climb?

Moss: I think Free Rider is a better route overall. In my opinion, every pitch on the Free Rider is super high quality. There are some pitches on the Nose that aren’t free climbed that often, and maybe I just don’t think they are as great because they’re not as travelled. Especially the pendulum pitches where people will just swing over, those never see free climbing traffic.

The crux pitches on the Nose are better though. The Great Roof and Changing Corners are some of the most amazing pitches I’ve ever climbed on.

Fullman: Do you have other El Cap free goals in the future? What else excites you?

Moss: I definitely like climbing El Cap in a day. I’ve not been a fan of hauling, and I’ve always wanted to do stuff in a day, so I think the goals now are to try and do free routes on El Cap that haven’t been freed in a day. Starting with the original Salathé Wall variations, which would be really cool to free climb in a day.

Some other things that excite me? I don’t think Watkins has ever been flashed. There’s a lot in the Valley to be psyched on.

Fullman: How did the climbing itself go on the day of your send? Who was supporting?

Moss: I went to bed at 4:00 p.m. on Halloween, and I started up at 1:15 a.m. with Tanner Wanish supporting me. I am super grateful for his support, with him mobbing behind me on the whole thing. He was the fastest jugger I had ever had by far. I started off super well, not falling and making it to Camp IV in, I think, three and a half hours, which felt really fast. We chilled there for a bit until sunrise, since we were there pretty early.

We realized that the route was super crowded, there was a party at Camp IV at the base of the Roof and a party above the Roof, which was pretty insane, so we kind of started getting up to try and beat the party that was about to start up the Roof. I sent the Roof on my second try after slipping off the corner section because some of the feet were wet. Sending the Great Roof second go felt amazing, and I cruised up the next two pitches. The glowering spot always feels super insecure, but I was able to send that pitch, too.

We chilled at Camp VI for a while before I started up the Changing Corners. There was a party mid-lead on it, so I was waiting for them to finish. Luckily, I had a cameraman who was able to pull their rope out of the way, so I was able to do the pitch before the follower started up and they finished hauling. That was also great because we were on a bit of a time crunch with the sun coming. I ended up sending the Changing Corners my first go. I was super excited at that moment since we were on pace for a 10-hour night, so I was already thinking about maybe doing a free double with Free Rider.

We ended up getting to the last pitch in 10 hours. I was thinking, “Oh, this looks great,” and then I just kept falling on the 12c pitch. At one point, I fell off the final 12a bulge because it was just so incredibly hot at that point with the sun beating directly on the rock, making it slick and hard to climb.

I finally sent that pitch fifth go. I was full crimping this right hand and rocking over this foot and my finger just totally split open. I barely pulled over and stood on this flake and looked down at my finger bleeding everywhere. Luckily, I had tape in my pocket, and I was able to tape it up while standing on this flake to finish the pitch. We were on top after 11 hours and 48 minutes. I feel grateful for what a great day it was.

Watch the moment Moss realized he was going to send the Nose in a day:

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