There Is No One-Size-Fits-All Personal Anchor. It All Comes Down to the “Why.”
I am sure we can all think of a time when we wished our personal tether had worked just a little better. A few come to mind for me.
Years ago, in the Cascades, I was disappointed by my tether being too short to see down over the edge and scout the rap line. On Pomme d’Or in Quebec, I wished my tether was more easily adjustable so I could hang on it to line up and drill my next V-thread. Rapping off the Grand Capucin on Mont Blanc a couple of years ago, on a particularly exposed and overhanging arête, I wished my tether was easier to lengthen so I could double-check my rappel setup before fully committing.
These days, there are numerous designs and ways to rig a personal tether, both improvised and manufactured. But understanding the “why” behind where and when to use a certain type of tether can help us be both safer and more efficient.
I’ll preface the rest of this article by saying that, while I prefer to use a clove hitch on my rope on the ascent, I typically prefer a personal tether of some kind when descending via multiple rappels. Now, here are several of the most important aspects to understand and consider when designing, selecting, and using a personal tether.
In addition, I want to add a note on terms here for clarity:
- Personal tether: A system connecting a climber directly into an anchor that might also be used to extend a rappel.
- Personal anchor system (or “PAS”): While Metolius makes a proprietary “Personal Anchor System,” many climbers also use the terms “personal anchor,” “personal anchor system,” or “PAS” to refer to their anchor tie-in system as well.
Watch Silas Rossi demonstrate his go-to DIY and pre-built personal anchors
What’s the main purpose of your personal anchor?
First, get clear on the desired function of your personal tether. Usually, a tether serves two functions:
- Anchoring us to the wall
- Serving as a rappel extension to create the necessary separation from our “third hand”/friction hitch backup” attached to our belay loop.
Sometimes, we may only need our tether to serve one of those roles, so we can simplify the configuration.
It’s critical to understand that a personal tether is not fall protection. Being belayed on a dynamic climbing rope is the only true fall protection system we utilize as climbers. To that end, whenever utilizing a personal tether, it’s important to clip into anchors above your waist height (ideally chest- or head-high).
We should also always clip in in a way that keeps us snug to the anchor, without any slack. If we slip, eliminating slack in our tether means that we’ll immediately come tight to the anchor and not actually fall at all. Even a short fall can generate enough force to injure us when anchored with relatively static tethers, which they all are.
Adjustability is key in personal tethers
In our day-to-day climbing, a tether should be adjustable in length, while simultaneously remaining secured to the anchor. Several dedicated personal anchor systems are designed to do this well. Many can adjust from as short as six inches to as long as five feet. One popular example is the Petzl Connect Adjust.
Adjustability becomes particularly important when transitioning from the anchor onto rappel in a multi-rappel descent. A long, adjustable tether allows you to rig your rappel and loosen the tether without taking it off the anchor. Then, you’re freed up to do a full visual and functional check of your completed rappel setup before committing to it by unclipping your personal tether. This is a common scenario that will often be repeated many times on a long descent.
The importance of a visually clear system
If I’m using a DIY P.A.S., I like to use two different carabiner types for the longest clip-in point and the shorter adjustment point. This provides visual clarity to ensure I never unintentionally unclip from my anchor while adjusting my P.A.S. length. So, when I’m using a DIY P.A.S., I clip the longest loop with a locking carabiner to the anchor, then use a non-locking carabiner to clip the shorter P.A.S. loop to that locker to adjust length. This way, I can safely unclip the non-locker to utilize the full tether length.
Visual clarity is important when employing any personal tether. If we can’t clearly understand or see how we are (or aren’t!) secured, we are asking for trouble. This is especially true for technical descents, where we’re weighting and testing literally every link in the chain of security. Regardless of your tether configuration, strive to make it as clean and simple as possible.
By creating an easily adjustable and visually clear system, you ensure your personal tether works in a variety of scenarios and terrain. This also allows you to easily and reliably identify if you’re using your system correctly.
DIY personal tether vs. purpose-built personal anchor
The overall remoteness, length, and difficulty of a particular route helps me decide if I’ll bring a manufactured P.A.S. or an improvised personal tether made from a sling or cord. I often ask myself if the benefits of a manufactured tether outweigh the weight (and bulk) penalty of carrying it just for the descent.
Here are some other questions to ask when determining if carrying a manufactured tether is worth the weight penalty:
- How experienced am I on this route/pitch?
- How experienced is my partner (i.e., are they still developing patterns/habits in this terrain?)
- How critical is weight on this route/pitch?
- How many rappels will I be doing on this route?
- What is the descent terrain (vertical, overhanging, ledgy) and medium (ice/type of rock)?
Types of improvised personal tethers I recommend
There are a variety of ways to DIY your own personal tether out of cord, slings, and other materials. Here are two setups I use frequently.
Cordalette or 240cm sling
Material needed: 1 cordalette (18-20’ cord length) or 240cm sling, one locking carabiner, one non-locking carabiner
Ideal for: Steppy/alpine terrain where more mobility on ledges is desired
Pros: Longer length, beefy, doesn’t require carrying a specific dedicated tether
Cons: Sometimes longer than needed for vertical terrain
Basket hitch the loop of material through your belay loop. Then tie as many overhand knots as you would like along the tether length.
Runner or sling
Material needed: 1 runner or sling (120cm), one locking carabiner, one non-locking carabiner
Ideal for: Vertical terrain with bolted anchors
Pros: Simple, neat, and compact, 120cm sling useful for other applications
Cons: Short. Unless anchors are perfectly placed and ledges are small it can feel short. Not easily adjustable in length for hanging on vertical terrain.
There are many options for how one might configure the rappel extension clip-in: overhand on bight, overhand in-line, or bowline.
Purpose-built personal anchors I recommend
There are a number of purpose-built P.A.S. systems on the market. Here are a few I use and like for certain scenarios.
Petzl Dual Connect Adjust
Ideal for: Multiple rappels in any terrain
Pros: Visual clarity, adjustability, ability to function-check rap setup before committing
Cons: Not versatile, heavy, bulky
The Petzl Dual Connect Adjust is the most visually clear and user-friendly tether on the market today. It’s perfect for beginner-intermediate climbers, and gives a high degree of comfort and security in all types of terrain.
Petzl Connect Adjust
Ideal for: Multiple rappels in any terrain. A great personal tether on the ascent if needed.
Pros: Visual clarity, adjustability, ability to function-check rap setup before committing
Cons: Not versatile, heavy
The Petzl Connect Adjust is my go-to when I want an easily adjustable personal tether that allows me to precisely locate myself at the anchor. I love this tether for ice climbing and for clients in alpine terrain that require lots of clipping/unclipping from multiple anchors.
Kong SLYDE
Ideal for: The DIY’r that wants an adjustable, dedicated tether without breaking the bank.
Pros: More customizable tether. You can get creative and use any length of rope you want! Very adjustable. Inexpensive.
Cons: Not plug-and-play, a little more finicky for adjusting length compared to Petzl Connect Adjust
I like the Kong Slyde for instances when I’d like to have a very long tether, as in toprope climbing setups, high-angle rescue, or on rigging jobs.
Why we should build flexible habits for personal tethering
I find one of the most interesting things about mentoring climbers and guides is witnessing the impact early climbing partners have on them. We are all creatures of habit. Early influences subconsciously wire our brains into seeing climbing systems in a particular way. Without even knowing it, this patterning creates habits that become second nature.
Our choice in choosing a personal tether is a great example of this. Are you still building your tether in the way you first learned? It’s valuable for each of us to take a step back and reexamine “why” we do certain things.
For me personally, it’s clear now that in each of my initial examples of tethers not working ideally, a manufactured tether would have significantly improved my experience on the descent. And while I still don’t always carry a manufactured tether, I do more often carry one today then in years past. I hope this article has helped give you some options and a better understanding of the “why” in choosing a tether for your next climbing day. Be safe enough out there!
Silas Rossi is an AMGA/IFMGA-certified mountain guide and climbing coach. He mentors climbers via The Ascend Membership and runs Alpine Logic, a Gunks-based guide service in New York. Follow along @silasrossi.
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