ACC Safety Bulletin: Fixed Gear
Are Fixed Rock Climbing Bolts Safe? How to Evaluate Them in the Field
By Steve Fedyna
Fixed rock climbing bolts are a cornerstone of modern sport climbing, providing protection on routes where natural gear placements are limited or non-existent. While generally considered reliable, the safety of these bolts depends on several factors, including the type of bolt used, the quality of installation, the surrounding rock, and the passage of time. Understanding the differences between bolt types—and knowing how to evaluate their condition in the field—is essential for any climber venturing onto bolted terrain.
Types of Climbing Bolts
There are two main categories of fixed climbing bolts: expansion bolts and glue-in bolts.
Expansion bolts are mechanical anchors that are held in place by expanding inside a drilled hole. When the bolt is tightened, an expansion sleeve presses against the sides of the hole, creating friction and resistance. These bolts are quick to install and widely used in many climbing areas.
Glue-in bolts, on the other hand, rely on a high-strength adhesive (usually a two-part epoxy) to bond a stainless steel rod into the rock. These are often used in soft or corrosive environments, such as seaside cliffs or limestone caves, and are generally considered more permanent than expansion bolts.
How Safe Are Bolts?
When placed properly in solid rock and regularly inspected or replaced as needed, both expansion and glue-in bolts can be extremely reliable. However, no bolt is infallible. Age, environmental conditions, and improper installation can degrade a bolt’s strength, making field evaluation critical.
In rare but catastrophic cases, bolts have failed during falls, often due to unseen corrosion, poor placement, or underlying rock weakness. While such events are uncommon, they underscore the importance of remaining vigilant when relying on fixed protection.
Evaluating Expansion Bolts in the Field
When approaching a route protected by expansion bolts, take a few moments to inspect each anchor visually and physically. Key things to look for include:
- Modern standard: Is the bolt a modern, 100% stainless steel bolt, washer and hanger? Or does the bolt look old or rusted? Or something entirely homemade from weak aluminum or iron that has corroded? Do not trust old, outdated, and unusual bolts.
- Spinning hangers: If you can rotate the bolt hanger with your fingers, the bolt is no longer fully tensioned. While not necessarily unsafe on its own, a loose hanger suggests that the nut may have also loosened, which can compromise the bolt’s holding power. Read more about how to tighten a loose bolt later in this article.
- Spinning bolts: If the bolt is spinning in its hole, the expansion mechanism is no longer gripping the rock correctly. This can be caused by over-torquing the bolt during the original installation or drilling a hole that is oval instead of round. Treat a spinning bolt with caution, and do not try to fix the bolt unless you are an experienced route builder. Spinning bolts are likely to be able to handle a shear force (a straight down pull) but could be unreliable in resisting the outward pull force generated by a whipper.
Pay particular attention to the anchors at the top of a climb—you should always test the tightness of the anchor’s bolts before relying on them. (And remember that the best practice is to use the ring anchors or gym clips at the top of a single sport climbing pitch for your final descent only; if you are projecting the climb, top roping, or doing multiple laps, attach your own gear on the anchor to save the wear and tear on the fixed hardware.)
- Rust and corrosion: Surface rust on a hanger may not be dangerous, but pitting, flaking, or deep corrosion—especially on the bolt shaft—can drastically weaken the anchor. Corrosion is a particularly serious concern in seaside or tropical areas where salt and humidity accelerate metal degradation. Use extra caution on any bolt that shows signs of rust.
- Loose bolts: If the bolt shaft itself wiggles or moves in the rock, do not trust it. This could indicate that the expansion sleeve has failed or that the hole has widened due to freeze-thaw cycles or improper drilling.
- Rock integrity: Look at the rock around the bolt. Cracks, hollow-sounding stone, or crumbling edges can all indicate that the anchor is no longer securely embedded. In Canada especially, freeze-thaw cycles can cause bolts to become detached, despite being initially placed in rock with good integrity.
Evaluating Glue-In Bolts
Glue-in bolts are often safer over the long-term, due to their resistance to loosening and corrosion. However, they also require careful inspection:
- Glue condition: Examine the epoxy or resin around the bolt shaft. It should be flush with the rock and free from cracks or gaps. If the glue appears to have shrunk, crumbled, or detached from the bolt, the anchor may be compromised.
- Movement: Gently try to wiggle the bolt. Any movement—however slight—means the adhesive bond may have failed. Do not use a bolt that shifts under pressure.
- Visible rust: Most glue-in bolts are made of stainless steel or titanium. Rust on such a bolt may signal the use of an inappropriate alloy, or exposure to a harsh environment beyond the bolt’s rating.
Best Practices for Climbers
- Carry a wrench. On sport climbs, especially in remote, lightly maintained and newly developed areas, bring a small adjustable or fixed-size wrench with you. Having a wrench on hand allows you to tighten a spinning bolt, if needed.
How to tighten a loose hanger: if you have a wrench (typically 3/8”), you can gently retighten the nut. Be cautious not to over-tighten, which can stress the bolt or damage the rock. Typically, you just need to tighten the bolt snug plus a half turn. In a pinch, you can sometimes use the opening on a BD ATC belay device to snug up bolts. It is also a good idea to always carry an extra hanger, nut and washer.
- Carry a spare nut and hanger. Check in with your local area to know what size is most commonly in use.
- Use personal judgment. If a bolt looks sketchy or questionable, skip it and consider an alternate line or rappel. No sport climb is worth your life.
- Report bad bolts. Many climbing communities have volunteers who help maintain bolts.
- In the Bow Valley, report issues on the TABVAR system via https://app.tabvar.org/issues.
- In Squamish, report issues to the SAS https://squamishaccess.ca/report-a-bad-bolt-or-anchor
- In the Okanagan Valley, contact the Central Okanagan Climbing Association at https://climbcoca.ca
- In Northern Alberta/ Jasper, contact the Northern Alberta Route Retrofitting and Development Association at https://narrda.ca/
- In Skaha, contact the Skaha Bluffs Collective via Facebook
- In David Thompson Country, contact The David Thompson Climbing Association at https://www.davidthompsonclimbing.org/
- In Quebec, contact the FÉDÉRATION QUÉBÉCOISE DE MONTAGNE ET D’ESCALADE at communaute@fqme.qc.ca
- Know your area: Some climbing destinations suffer from specific issues. In Thailand, for example, stainless steel bolts were once considered standard. Over time, they began to fail due to stress corrosion cracking in the salty, humid air. In response, titanium glue-in bolts became the new standard. Understanding the local history of bolt usage can guide your trust (or skepticism) of fixed gear.
Final Thoughts
Fixed climbing bolts are not foolproof, but with knowledge and careful evaluation, they can be safely relied upon. Whether using expansion or glue-in bolts, every climber shares a responsibility to inspect, maintain, and report anchor conditions. Climbing is inherently risky, but vigilance—and a wrench in your pack—can keep you and others safe on the wall.
Get Involved
If you have an idea for future bulletins please contact safety@alpineclubofcanada.ca. You can help the club’s safety culture by reporting incidents and near misses using our reporting form. If ACC members would like support on safety issues in trip planning, please reach out and we would be happy to talk it through with you!
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