Glan Dena, Ogwen – 5th to the 7th of September 2025

The late-summer trip to North Wales was organised by Emma W and ten of us made to trip to Glan Dena Hut which is located beside the A5 road at the northern edge of Tryfan. A brilliant hut, owned by the MAM and in a perfect location for all things mountaineering.

Dave M, Dan S and Jack M made an early start to be at Glan Dena for Friday lunchtime. Sam K also made it to Glan Dena for lunchtime to make two climbing pairs and after bagging the best bunks headed across the road for an afternoon of lowish-grade climbing in very pleasant weather. Dan and Sam climbed together and Dave was with Jack. Three, mostly multi-pitch routes were climbed by each pair before wandering back to the hut for dinner and to properly establish ourseves in the hut.

Nine of us had gathered in the hut during the evening and Emma arrived in the morning after an early start in Yorkshire. The weather forecast was good, predicting a dry day but breezy and cool. Saturday's main aim for all teams was to stay local and walk, scramble or climb easier grade routes that would provide manageable alternatives if the crags became busy with other climbers. Jenny G and Paulina M started on Bochlwyd Buttress and climbed Arete and Slab. Paulina was fatigued after recent travels and felt the cold so sadly had to bail after one route. Quick off the mark, Jenny was able to dash around the corner to catch up with Emma and Alex on the top pitch of Sub Cneifion Rib.

Derek and Ewart had also aimed for Sub Cneifion Rib and walked in with Emma and Alex. A team ahead had slowed everyone at the start of the climb but eventually Derek and Ewart headed up the crag, moving quite quickly and intent on avoiding further delays at their next objective, Cneifion Arete. Ewart had long wanted to do both routes and today he achieved a double success.

After completing Sub Cneifion Rib Emma, Alex and Jenny headed across to Milestone Buttress where they climbed Pulpit Route.

Sam and Dan had decided on a walking route around the Glyders for Saturday. The often awkward, rocky terrain would prove a useful test for Sam. After heading up the Devil's Kitchen and crossing Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach, calling in at the Cantilever Stone they descended back to Glan Dena via Heather Terrace. The ridges and summit of Tryfan were very busy when they were passing so were best avoided this time.

Dave and Jack set off from the hut at 9am and scrambled up the North Ridge of Tryfan then continued up Bristly Ridge to Glyder Fach. There were people about but in the late morning the routes were still relatively quiet. Near the top of Bristly Ridge, Jack enjoyed an introduction to abseiling from the very top of the First Great Pinnacle down into Pinnacle Gap. At the top of the ridge a brief detour was made to the Cantilever Stone before a traverse of the summit to descend via Y Gribin.

Most of us had returned to the hut in the late afternoon which gave plenty of time to relax and prepare for the evening. All hands set to work, helping Ewart to create another fantastic team meal. Emma, Jenny and Alex were slower to finish their climb on Milestone Buttress and had to eat at a second sitting. However, there was plenty of food and at least they were back in the hut before the sun had set.

Everything was cleared away after the meal and the mezzanine lounge proved to be the perfect, atmospheric place to continue our evening of club bonding through aimless conversation. Several different types of whisky appeared and, for those that like that sort of thing, triggered an informal session of sampling and describing the complex nature of each bottle. Tasting literature pointing to "Subtle notes of vanilla," "A hint of new car smell" and "bramble, blackcurrant and citrus" made for a wonderful read but to the less indoctrinated it led to the assumption of "a whiff of male, bovine manure."

The entertainment continued until late. The forecast for Sunday was for rain and deteriorating conditions. The forecast was right. In the morning everyone again played their part in cleaning the hut and making all ship-shape before leaving. There was a plan to call into the Big Depot at Leeds on the way home but the heavy traffic, heavy rain and subdued state of mind eroded our commitment to climb so a rest day was declared and all returned home.

Thanks to Emma for organising the weekend and coordinating the cleanup and also to Ewart for stepping up again for chef duties and for setting the menu. Thanks to everyone else for showing up, having a go and making the weekend another happy and successful trip.

Cheers!

Dave M