Seven Days Traversing the Tirol
2nd to 8th SEPTEMBER 2025 AUSTRIA EAST TIROL
We arrived on the wings of a midnight thunderstorm. Our first morning was full of very low cloud and hanging mist. So my friend Steve W and I worked out a route a few hundred metres above the valley, but below the mirk.
From Hopfgarten im Brixental (some 70 minutes by train and bus east from Munich) on intermediate level trails southwards a simple 12 Km to Steinberghaus, a country Inn tucked away at the head of the valley.
Next day dawned bright and clear. From Steinberghaus our way led east over the mountain ridge to the next valley. Up, up and up on forest trails. Up and up on farm tracks. And up on a small path. About 1000 metres of ascent got us to the Hintenkarscharte , a narrow V-shaped notch, like a railway cutting.
We gazed our last at the mountain Lodron (not seen the previous day !).
Towards the east end of the cutting/notch the view was restricted..... until I stepped out and involuntarily cried “Wow !.... wow !” at the sight of the Grosser Rettenstein jutting upwards, rocky and abrupt.
We went on, down down down to Labalm (superb apfelstrudel but provided by the most curmudgeonly host !) and a bit more down to the Oberlandhutte. Proper club hut this, dating from 1928. Shadowy creaky, comfy and friendly.
We had a prompt breakfast, girded our loins, and set off for Grosser Rettenstein. In a perfect morning, our track went steeply up through woods and meadows into the high valley happily named the Shontal, past the farm and onto a small steep path. To our left, a green ridge ended against the cliffs of the upper mountain. To our right, a rocky ridge of many pinnacles soared towards the summit. Improbable.
The path kept traversing in order to by-pass the pinnacles, Finally, it headed upwards for the last 300 m ascent, zig-zagging on narrow ledges across high-angled ground.. With lots of loose stones underfoot, it was wise to concentrate carefully and “Look well to each step” ….... as of course Edward Whymper put it. .
Eventually, there was steeper rock to grab and a short scramble to a narrow summit. This was 1400 metres above Oberlandhutte. Time for lunch.
The delight of the afternoon was to get back down the steep rocky bit, traverse the NE face, then up some more, and stroll along the attractive ridge which forms the east side of Schontal.
These lovely days had placed a great strain on our Good Weather Tokens; and so our next day was dull and showery. From the Oberlandhutte just over 900 m uphill via Obere Kleinmoosalm led us along a high ridge to Pengelstein summit. The going was easy along a ski road, but mostly in mist, and after a snack stop, steady rain.
We were glad to arrive at the top of the Hahnenklamm – high above Kitzbuhel – and the warmth of the Hoch-eck Hutte. It's commercial, but traditional, dark and creaky, with a great chef and fantastic food.
Overnight the cold front passed, and left us the beautiful legacy of a cloud inversion across all the valleys.
We retraced our steps along the ski road for a while. This time with benefit of views, including the Wilder Kaiser to the north.
The higher mountains glittered with fresh snow.
We turned east off the main ridge, to the summit of Steinbergkogel and then followed the spur over Gigglinghohe (honest !!) and down down down to the valley south of Kitzbuhel.
Crossing into a side valley a climb of 600 metres led to the club hut of Bochumer, a sunlit terrace and a couple of beers.
The Bochumerhutte was to be our base for some summits at the head of the side valley.
Tracks led almost to the bealach, and then a steep path (with a short wired section) to Tristkogel
Then to the matching Saalkogel - thoughtfully equipped with a seat at the top-- to left of picture (? Will the Munro Society order 284 ?) and a descent ridge north over Rauber to Laubkogel and finally to some more beer.
“And on the seventh day He rested”. We were glad to do likewise, and it was all downhill from Bochumerhutte to Kitzbuhel.
We rested at a restaurant for a nice lunch and counted our blessings of mostly great weather and stunning views. Train to Munich. Eine gute reise
ANDREW