Two-time Olympic Climber Laura Rogora Achieves Hardest Female Onsight Ever

On the morning of July 28, Italian climber Laura Rogora made history by onsighting 5.14c/8c+—the hardest grade any woman has ever sent on her first attempt without any beta. She nabbed the record on Ultimate Sacrifice in the Gorges du Loup, a limestone area in the Cannes region of France known for its hard sport routes. Muriel Sarkany, a female Belgian climber, put up the first ascent of Ultimate Sacrifice in 2012. The route also saw an ascent by British climber Will Smith in 2014.

Rogora’s achievement ticks the all-time highest female onsight up one grade, from 5.14b/8c to 5.14c/8c+. In 2021, Janja Garnbret became the first woman to onsight 5.14b on Fish Eye in Oliana, Spain—a route recently redpointed by nine-year-old Veronica Chik. This progression leaves a narrow, two-step gap between men and women when it comes to the hardest onsight grade: 5.14d (men) vs. 5.14c (women). To date, Alex Megos and Adam Ondra are the only two people to have onsighted 5.14d.

In the past four years, the 24-year-old has made a whirlwind of record-setting ascents in the past four years. In 2020, the Rome-born phenom became the second woman in history to redpoint 5.15b/9b with Ali Hulk in Rodellar, Spain. Last February, she onsighted American Hustle (5.14b), her third 5.14b onsight in three years. And in between, she represented Italy at the Olympics twice.

We caught Rogora before she returned to the competition circuit to ask her a few quick questions about her experience on Ultimate Sacrifice and what she’s up to next.

Climbing: Did you intend to onsight Ultimate Sacrifice? Or did the onsight come as a surprise?

Laura Rogora: Actually, the idea came to me after the first few days at Gorges du Loup. I had spotted this route that adds a 10-move 8b to an 8c.

Climbing: What attracted you to Ultimate Sacrifice? What had you heard about the route prior to climbing it?

Rogora: The original plan was to try the 8c onsight, but then I thought it was worth trying the direct start, and if I fell lower down, I could still attempt the 8c onsight. However, I knew that since endurance is my strength, if I managed to get through the intense first part, I’d have a real shot at it.

Climbing: Was there a moment when you thought you might fall?

Rogora: On the first 8b part, I was close to falling twice. When I got through that section, I started to feel a bit anxious because I knew I had a real chance. But I climbed well up to the final crux, where I missed some holds on the right and messed up the beta. Luckily, I realized it in time and managed to go back and change the beta.

Climbing: Did you have a mantra that you repeated to yourself during the climb?

Rogora: Stay calm, but give it all on hard moves.

Climbing: What’s your next big goal? Any exciting trips or plans for the rest of the year?

Rogora: Now I will focus on training for the last stage of the World Cup and the World Championships. In October, I will climb again on rock.

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