Opinion: I Run a Climbing Gym. Here’s Why I Tell People to Climb Outside More.

It’s 2 a.m. on a sleepless night. A dull red light illuminates my pitch-black room as I doom-scroll through the dumpster fire that is my Instagram algorithm. I’ve left the wholesome cat memes. Now, I’m navigating influencers pushing the latest climbing trends and advertising their “training programs” to help you send your project.

“Learn to climb 5.12 in just two weeks!”

“Train on a board to get the gains for your project!”

These tropes play over cliché music. They are layered with catchy cuts, smiles, and a kernel of good advice—but mostly, it’s just a garbage diatribe searching for clicks and sign-ups, all with promises that pulling on plastic in a gym will get you to the chains of your outdoor project.

I believe training in a gym is a useful tool. It’s especially advantageous for those who work full-time jobs, have kids, or need to build a foundation of strength, power, or endurance to achieve their climbing goals. However, it isn’t a substitute for being outside. If the gym is your only approach to sending, you’ll likely walk away from a session on your outdoor project feeling disheartened and unmotivated.

I’ve taught several clinics on the process of redpoint climbing with the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic Series from 2012–2024 (R.I.P.) and have had the fortune of working with a gamut of people with wildly different climbing experiences. The participants ranged from teenagers to a spry 70-year-old, and from people just learning how to top-rope belay to those questing after their first 5.14. One common thread among all these climbers? The desire for some kind of training program—a shortcut or a quick way to improve their climbing immediately.

My answer to those queries was simple: “No amount of burpees, one-arm hangs, lifting exercises, or pull-ups will solely get you through a route or boulder problem.”

This may have been a disappointing answer, but I think time on route, rather than gym training, is king. Getting on your project day after day and gaining experience and fitness will do more to help you meet and surmount your goal than doing trending exercises to “strengthen that core” without knowing how to apply the gains.

What’s the best way to get started? First, find a project that inspires you. You’ll be spending a lot of time on it, and if you’re not inspired by what you’re doing, then there’s little reason to do it in the first place.

It’s also worth having projecting friends or a partner who is on the same page. Don’t drag out friends or significant others who hate the project mentality; it just causes rifts and a lack of focus.

Next, get comfortable on the route. If you’re afraid of falls, extend draws for more comfortable clipping stances. Find a belay partner you trust implicitly. Remove any variables that keep you from focusing on the climbing.

Last, I suggest setting a timer. Honestly, this may have saved my marriage and climbing partnership. Give yourself a 40- to 60-minute timer for sussing out beta. This way, no one gets upset about long belays, and the climber doesn’t feel rushed.

There’s no silver bullet to your next send, but putting in the time (and doing it on rock) is a surefire way to increase your chances at success.

 

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