Weekend Whipper: Watch Angus Kille Attempt 5.13d R/X First Ascent

Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com. 

In this week’s whipper, Angus Kille attempts an E9 (5.13dR/X) first ascent in the last few days before his and Hazel Findlay’s daughter is born. (Check out the full video on Strong Mind’s excellent Youtube Channel.)

Kille worked on the first ascent at a local crag throughout Findlay’s pregnancy while his wife and favorite climbing partner “was busy making a person.” He practiced the falls, gradually climbing higher above a nest of gear, to work out how reliable the gear was and where the falls were safe. Kille says this whipper was actually in the “no fall zone” but his belayer reeled in a good armful of rope to keep him off the ground.

The route is just outside of Llanberis in North Wales, U.K. Angus says the route has reasonably good gear for most of the way, but the long crux boulder has a big run out above a cluster of solid protection. “The runout is hard,” Kille told Climbing, “but the real crux was staying focused on the moves as I was running out of time to climb the route.”

Kille said that bringing this route to life paralleled his journey of becoming a father (hence the name of the route, Patrescence). You can learn more about his first-ascent process, how he trains for bold climbs, his thoughts on being in the waiting room of fatherhood—plus how Hazel feels about this bold ascent—in Strong Mind’s 15-minute film. 

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend. Thanks to Emily Cooney for the video.

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