Weekend Whipper: Quick-Thinking Bystander Protects Trad Climber With Crashpad

Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com.

England is not particularly renowned for its soaring cliffs, and, paired with the surrounding area’s penchant for downright dangerous traditional climbs, there is perhaps no area on earth with a greater percentage of crashpads below trad climbs.

That small fact (which is a generous descriptor) certainly worked out for this week’s whipper, Ryan, when he fell off the 26-foot Charming Crack (E2 5c/well-protected 5.10) at Brimham Rocks, North Yorkshire. The party had brought a crashpad to the crag for a different, more dangerous stumpy trad route, and was able to deploy it in a flash.

Ryan’s filmer, Dylan Smith, gave a great description of the accident, so we’ll let him take it from here:

My friends and I love crack climbing, some say obsessed. We hone our craft in every corner of the UK to equip us in the holy lands of Yosemite, Indian Creek, and the Orco Valley. This weekend took us to Brimham, a punchy little Gritstone outcrop in the rolling hills of North Yorkshire, where cracks are plenty and grades mean nothing. After I took on an offwidth roof crack, aptly named The Brutaliser, Ryan wanted his turn on the route next door. All eyes were on him as he tied in for the lead, Ed put him on belay and off he went. A flared thin-hand crack tapered into baggy fingers, and on the ever-steepening terrain he pulled hard, not realizing the rope had gone on the wrong side of his leg. Will, the man with the pad, noticed immediately, and quietly positioned himself, just in case Ryan fell off and inevitably smashed into the blunt arete below. Ryan did fall, did invert, and did hit the rock below with force. If it wasn’t for Will, and of course Ed on belay, he could have been quite injured.

A lesson learned here was that the people you climb with can have a huge impact on your experience and safety. Climb with people you know and trust, and who, although always laugh and joke and have a good time, will always have half an eye on the intricacies of staying safe.

(Editor’s note: when asked for a longer version of this video, Dylan apologetically declined, saying “I was eating when he was climbing so I didn’t film much. I just pulled my phone out as he started quivering.”)

Fair enough. At least you caught the action! Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.

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