Ermanno Salvaterra, Climbing Legend, Dies in a Fall in the Dolomites

Ermanno Salvaterra, the famed “Man of Cerro Torre,” died in a fall on August 18 while guiding the Hartman-Krauss (IV+/5.5; 600m) on Campanile Alto, in the Dolomites. 

Salvaterra had climbed the classic route dozens of times before, and was placing a cam when his handhold ripped from the wall. He fell 20 meters, passed the belay, and struck his head against the wall. His climbing partner, a client, rappelled down to reach him but could do nothing except comfort Salvaterra during his final moments. He was 68 years old.

Salvaterra, born in Pinzolo, Italy, was raised by parents who managed an alpine hut in the rugged Brenta Dolomites, the perfect playground for a wide-eyed boy. Salvaterra developed a passion for mountain sports at a young age and became a Skiing Master Instructor at 20 years old, then an Alpine Guide four years later. He established significant modern climbing routes in his home range, including Via Delle Aspiranti Guide (6a+/5.10; 300m) and Elefante Viola (5.10; 300m) on Pilastro Bruno, Super Maria (5.10; 750m) on Crozzon di Brenta, Cheyenne (5.11-; 350m) and Duomo dei Falchetti (5.10+; 300m) on the Campanile Basso, and the classic Via della Soddisfazione (5.10a; 380m) on Cima d’Ambiéz.

Salvaterra first heard about Patagonia’s stunning spires while in conversation with the legendary Renato Casarotto, who had established Cerro Chaltén’s (Fitz Roy) Goretta Pillar in 1979. 

Salvaterra’s first expedition to Cerro Torre was in 1982. The 27-year-old was most comfortable on the Dolomites’ limestone walls, but he’d climbed enough icy granitic faces in the Alps to feel prepared. Salvaterra teamed up with Elio Orlandi, their first of many trips together, and laid the foundation of a longstanding and successful partnership. The duo wasted no time on warm-up climbs and took aim at Cesare Maestri’s Compressor Route, ultimately bailing from midway up the mountain.

Salvaterra returned to Cerro Torre in October 1983, accompanied by Maurizio Giarolli. He understood how uncommon it was to visit the mountain during such a snowy time of year, but he had no choice: In Italy, he worked the summer seasons in the climbing huts, then the winters as a ski instructor. His only chance to climb in Patagonia was during the autumn break!

His second Patagonia trip was a glorious success. First, the Ermanno-Maurizio duo climbed Cerro Torre’s Compressor Route, taking the Jim Bridwell variation on the final sections. Then, joined by Elio Orlandi in November, they climbed the famous Supercanaleta (5.9 WI4; 1,500m) on Cerro Chaltén. They tagged Aguja Guillaumet and Aguja Poincenot before heading back to Italy.

Two years later, July 1985, Salvaterra teamed up with Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, and Andrea Sarchi to make the first (austral) winter ascent of Cerro Torre, summiting on July 7 after a week of battle against extreme colds, winds, verglass, and freezing bivouacs on the wall.

Salvaterra’s seemingly infinite love for Cerro Torre propelled him toward five new routes on the mountain. First came Infinito Sud (6b/5.10d A4 70˚; 1,200m) in 1995 with Roberto Manni and Piergiorgio Vidi. Then, in 1999, with Mauro Mabboni, he climbed a variant of the Compressor Route. In 2004, with Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti, he opened Quinque Anni ad Paradisum (6c/5.11b A4 90˚; 900m) on the East Face. In 2005, with Rolando Garibotti and Alessandro Beltrami, he climbed the North Face by opening the now-famous El Arca del los Vientos (6b+/5.11a C1 60˚; 550m), the same face that Cesare Maestri had purported to climb (despite many naysayers) in 1959. Salvaterra had long believed Maestri’s claim, but after climbing the feature and seeing no trace of his ascent, Salvaterra eventually lost faith in his hero.

Salvaterra will be forever celebrated in Patagonia-climbing history, not just for his successful ascents, but for his visionary attempts, seeing lines and opportunity where few others did.

Also a prolific filmmaker, photographer, and writer, Salvaterra was described by his friends as an always-smiling elf, always active and restless, with a shy demeanor that faded to brilliance and enthusiasm as he got to know you. He and his wife, Lella, had no children but deeply valued their presence while guiding hikes and climbs, or ski instructing.

Allow me to leave you with a quote from Salvaterra, which, I think, captures his infatuation with Cerro Torre:

“When I talk about Cerro Torre and her sisters, my narrative is similar to that of a woman. If you like a girl and you think she’s the most beautiful girl in the world, the more you look at her, the more you like her. Then you don’t feel any need to court others.”

Salvaterra and Cerro Torre made great impressions on one another. And we are all richer for it.

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