Use This Belay Technique When A High-Impact Force Factor-2 Fall Is Possible
The fixed-point belay (FPB) lets you belay a lead climber directly from the anchor—instead of your harness—while multi-pitch climbing, preventing a violent pull on the belayer during a leader fall. (A lightweight belayer can also use the FPB while single-pitch cragging—if a bottom anchor is available.) Protecting the belayer protects the leader, especially if a factor 2 fall is possible. This belay method is most useful when the climbing off the belay is steep, runout, difficult—and/or all three!
To begin, first determine if an FPB is advisable. Could you set up a belay elsewhere? Could the belayer use a tether (10-plus feet) and hang below the anchor? Could the leader pre-clip the first piece of the next pitch? If not, then an FPB is probably a good idea.
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