The Tough Guy Killer: Adventures in Colombia's Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

In the shade underneath the thatched roof choza, I looked one last time at the bottom of my coffee cup. This was day two of our expedition in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia, and it was spent arranging passage from the local Kogi shaman into their lands of overwhelming green, wildly steep mountain sides, and equatorial glacier-clad peaks. After some lengthy negotiations we received a hand-written permit for us to journey into the indigenous Kogi tribal land. Time to pack.