Hockey, a Hell of a Feast, & One Wild Weekend at the Drake Devonshire
Prince Edward County in winter isn’t exactly my first thought — it’s a place that, under a cloak of snow and ice, seems to put its usual charms on pause. The wineries shutter their doors, and even the Sandbanks settle into hibernation. But if you take the chance, like I did this past February weekend, the county reveals a side you wouldn’t expect. It helps that Wellington played host to the Drake Devonshire’s 5th annual Barn Burner Charity Hockey Game and afterparty. In a madcap collision of hockey and culinary excellence, the town became ground zero for chefs, brewers, distillers, and vendors from Montreal and Toronto squaring off for charity in a game that had everything — even a little blood on the ice.
At Wellington’s arena, the Toronto Grinders and the Montreal Mashers clashed while 17 local restaurants served up the kind of rinkside bites that make you forget you’re even watching hockey. This year, the charity game was the second act in a double-header — following a sold-out tilt between two bitter local Junior A rivals: the Wellington Dukes and the Trenton Golden Hawks. It’s a matchup that never fails to electrify the community.
In the short but fierce history of the Barn Burner, Montreal had never bested their Toronto rivals. This year, they were determined to change that, hoping the Drake would finally have a new name to etch onto the trophy. Captained by Steph Darwish from the Mount Royal Tennis Club and backed by the culinary talents of Café Parma’s Anthony Di Iorio, Tuck Shop’s Theo Lerikos, and The Coldroom’s Kevin Demers, among others, they looked poised to break the streak. On the other side, Toronto’s squad — led by Ted Corrado of Scale Hospitality and stacked with heavy hitters like Cheese Boutique’s Fatos Pristine, Dillon’s Adam D’Intino, and Richmond Station’s Hayden Johnston — jumped out to an early 2-0 lead, looking like they’d keep their dominance intact.
But the game quickly turned into a back-and-forth slugfest. Wellington Dukes’ coach Brian Mackenzie — a ringer for the Montreal team — took a shot to the nose, leaving a trail of blood on the ice. Like the true champ he is, he was back moments later, just in time to help his team claw back. In the dying seconds, Montreal sealed a dramatic 5-4 victory, finally toppling their rivals.
Between the two 20-minute periods, we sampled the best of the local flavours — œufs mayonnaise from Jamie Kennedy Kitchens, spiced tomato soup from Beacon Bike + Brew, and pork and beans from Fawn Over Market were just a few standouts. One of the busiest stalls belonged to Chef Charlotte Langley, whose “Glizzies and Phillies” stand had a steady lineup for her loaded cheesesteaks and chili dogs.
It was a perfect afternoon — hockey, great food, and a community that knows how to celebrate both. With last year’s efforts raising over $5,000 and this year’s challenge expected to top that, there was more on the line than just bragging rights.
After the final buzzer, we sauntered back to the Drake Devonshire. A quick power nap later, the hockey-playing chefs swapped their jerseys for chef whites and got back to work, cooking up a feast for the lucky crowd who had secured a spot. The Devonshire shut down its entire main-floor dining room and event spaces for what has become one of the biggest nights of the year.
Anthony Rose’s Fat Pasha hit us with a plate of pastrami and pickles as bold and unfiltered as the man himself, while Tuck Shop kept the rhythm going by shucking and serving PEI oysters. Over at Charles-Tristan Prevost’s Casavant Montreal, a beautifully crafted scallop crudo — dressed with a daring dash of chorizo — and that’s just a taste of what was on offer over the course of the night.
The party stretched well past 1 a.m., with the Drake’s tireless bar team keeping the drinks flowing, the dessert table picked clean, and the DJ spinning until the last call. For a place that seems to go quiet in the winter, Prince Edward County had plenty to say that weekend — on the ice, on the plate, and in the way a community, English and French Canada included, comes together when the temperature drops. The Barn Burner wasn’t just a game or a meal; it was a reminder that winter here isn’t just something to endure — it’s something to celebrate.
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