Ireland I (2018)
This is second in a series of articles that documents my international golf travels. Up until 2017, I had only played golf in the United States and once in the Bahamas. Since then, I have increased the number of countries I have played in to 16 with the anticipation of adding 1 more in 2025. See my entire list of courses played here. It has been an incredible journey and one that I hope continues for years to come.
My first trip to Ireland ….. The 2018 Ireland I Itinerary included Royal Portrush (Dunluce), Royal County Down (Championship), European Club, Old Head, Waterville, Ballybunion (Old), Lahinch (Old), and Portmarnok Golf Links. So many things to dissect here. We flew from Nashville to London to start our journey. Plan was to site see in London then head to Paris and do more of the same before heading to Northern Ireland for our first two rounds of golf. After that we dropped our wives off in Dublin while we continued on to tour the Republic of Ireland for another week.
| Course | Royal Portrush (Dunluce) (https://www.royalportrushgolfclub.com/) |
| Ranking | #14 World #2 Northern Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Portrush, County Antrim, Northern Ireland |
| Built | 1888 |
| Architect | Harry Colt |
Royal Portrush’s Dunluce Links is one of the most accomplished modern links routings in the world, set along the rugged Antrim Coast of Northern Ireland. Originally laid out by Harry Colt and refined most recently ahead of The Open Championship, the course combines towering dunes, rolling fairways, and firm, fast conditions that reward controlled ball flight and strategic thinking. The setting is dramatic, but the design remains grounded in classic links principles. Our first round of this trip was at Royal Portrush. This was ahead of the 2019 Open being held there. We were super excited for this round. We headed to the first tee and met the starter as well being introduced to our caddies. This is always an interesting social time but shortly after the introductions we were told my the starter that we would be joined by a third for our round. We always anticipate this when playing as a twosome so not a big deal to us. However, in this case, our caddies were a bit giddy in excitement as our playing partner approached the tee box. My caddie, John, came up to me in excitement and raised his right sleeve to show me a tattoo of Manchester United. He also has a similar tattoo on his right calf. At that point I realized we were playing with someone of importance. The starter introduced us to the gentleman joining us as David Moyes. He is a Scottish professional football manager and former player, who currently manages Premier League club Everton. He was the former manager of Manchester United as well as West Ham which explained the reaction from our football loving caddies. David was incredible and a joy to play with. He was very humbling and really relatable. At the end of our round he asked where we were having dinner and we said that we planned to eat at Harbor Bar in Portrush. He quickly responded to say that he would see us there because he was planning to eat there with his family. We figured that while that was nice, we likely would not see him again. We go to Harbor Bar and got to our table. Our waiter was from England. After our meal was served, we heard a murmur among the restaurant as it appeared someone had arrived of interest. Our waiter was quick to inform us that the former Manchester United manager, David Moyes, had arrived with his family. We responded that we were not surprised because he told us he would see us here after the round of golf we had played earlier in the day. Our waiter was in awe of what we were telling him. After we paid our bill and headed out of the Harbor Bar, we passed David’s table and made eye contact with him. He quickly recognized us and made his way out of the middle of the table he was sitting in to give us a warm embrace and proceeded to introduce us to his family that was present. The people in the Harbor Bar were in awe of these unknown Americans who had become fast friends with David Moyes. It was a really cool moment for us. David Moyes is an authentic person who now has some new American fans. Holes of not include the demanding opening hole, setting the tone with a narrow fairway framed by dunes that immediately ask for accuracy from the tee. One of the most recognizable holes on the course is the par-3 16th, “Calamity,” which plays across a deep chasm to a green set on a distant dune ridge. The tee shot requires full commitment, with little margin for error, especially when the wind is unsettled. Another standout is the par-4 5th, where positioning off the tee is essential to access a green protected by bunkers and natural contours. Dunluce Links provides a balanced and demanding test, blending championship-level challenge with a natural coastal landscape that makes it one of the defining links courses in Ireland and the UK.
| Course | Royal County Down (Championship) (https://www.royalcountydown.org/) |
| Ranking | #3 World, #1 Northern Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Newcastle, County Down, Northern Ireland |
| Built | 1889 |
| Architect | George L. Baillie, Old Tom Morris |
The Old Course at Royal County Down is widely regarded as one of the finest examples of links golf in the world, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Mourne Mountains and Dundrum Bay. Laid out originally in 1889 and refined over time, the course blends natural beauty with demanding, thoughtful design. Fairways weave through towering dunes, often appearing narrow from the tee, while firm turf and constant coastal winds place an emphasis on control and course management. The opening hole is memorable and instructive, requiring a blind tee shot between dunes to a fairway that quickly introduces the visual challenges found throughout the round. Precision, rather than power, is consistently rewarded. The par-4 4th is a standout, playing along the coastline with rugged dunes and gorse shaping both the tee shot and approach, offering one of the most striking views in Irish golf. Later, the par-3 9th presents a demanding mid-iron over dunes to a well-protected green, where wind direction plays a significant role in club selection. Greens are subtly contoured and often elevated, placing a premium on positioning from the fairway. Royal County Down’s Old Course delivers a complete links experience—strategic, scenic, and exacting—remaining memorable not for excess, but for its balance of challenge and natural setting.
| Course | European Club (http://theeuropeanclub.com/) |
| Ranking | #5 Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Ireland |
| Built | 1987 |
| Architect | Pat Ruddy |
The European Golf Club, located in Brittas Bay, County Wicklow, Ireland, is a seaside links course designed and built by Pat Ruddy. Opened in 1993, it spans dramatic sand dunes along the Irish Sea. We dropped Lisa and Phyllis off at the Dublin airport and proceeded to the European Club. We arrived at the club an hour before our tee time to an empty parking lot. We headed to the pro shop to find the door locked. We headed back to our car somewhat puzzled. We knew we had secured the first tee time of the day but didn’t think we were there that early. About 10 minutes had gone by and then a car appeared and parked near the entrance to the pro shop. An older gentleman got out, looked at us, and went in the door. So, we we decided to go in and when we went in there was no one to be seen. Within a few minutes, the gentleman appeared welcoming us. It was none other than noted golf architect himself, Pat Ruddy. He welcomed us and the with a wry smile said he usually doesn’t check golfers but made his way around the register and took care of us. He gave us an overview of the course and cited some holes of note. We really enjoyed getting to talk to Mr. Ruddy. The course itself includes 20 holes instead of the traditional 18, with two extra par-3s. It also features the world’s longest green at the 12th hole, measuring 127 yards. The layout is challenging and a real test. Tiger Woods holds the course record of 67. It’s signature hole is the Par 4 7th hole featuring towering dunes and coastal views.
| Course | Old Head (https://www.oldhead.com/) |
| Ranking | #17 Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland |
| Built | 1997 |
| Architect | Ron Kirby |
Old Head Golf Links is set on a narrow peninsula extending nearly two miles into the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of County Cork. Carved into dramatic cliffs that rise sharply from the sea, the course offers a setting unlike any other in golf. Opened in 1997, Old Head combines a modern layout with a rugged coastal environment, where ocean views are present on nearly every hole and wind is a constant factor. This was likely the most anticipated course of our trip due to the majestic topography of the course located on the Old Head of Kinsale in County Cork, 10 miles to the southwest of the town in Kinsale.As we entered Kinsale, we stopped to get gas before heading to our hotel that evening to check-in. Once we unpacked our bags, we decided to head into town to get some dinner. We barely we out of the hotel parking lot and our rental car started to run a little rough. As we were talking about what we needed to do we realized that we had put regular gas into our diesel engine car. We also learned that this particular Monday was a bank holiday in Ireland. This put us in a precarious predicament that led to one of the craziest several hours I have ever experienced. The routing at Old Head follows the natural shape of the headland, with holes often playing along cliff edges or toward the water, demanding focus and commitment from the tee. The par-4 4th is an early highlight, requiring a precise tee shot along the edge of the cliffs before an approach to a well-guarded green. Later, the par-5 12th stands out for both its length and exposure, with the Atlantic bordering the entire right side and wind frequently influencing strategy on each shot. Greens are generally generous but well protected by bunkering, encouraging thoughtful positioning rather than brute force. While the scenery is dramatic, Old Head remains playable for a wide range of golfers, provided they manage conditions and choose their lines carefully. The course delivers a memorable round defined by its setting, steady challenge, and constant connection to the surrounding seascape.
| Course | Waterville (https://www.watervillegolflinks.ie/) |
| Ranking | #6 Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Waterville, County Kerry, Ireland |
| Built | 1889 |
| Architect | Eddie Hackett, Tom Fazio |
Waterville Golf Links occupies a remote stretch of Ireland’s southwest coast, where the Atlantic Ocean and Lough Currane shape both the scenery and the golf. Established in 1898 and refined by architects including Eddie Hackett, the course offers a traditional links experience defined by firm turf, steady winds, and a routing that makes full use of its natural setting. The layout is welcoming off the tee, but rewards players who control flight and understand how to use the ground. The opening holes ease players into the round before the course begins to lean more heavily into its coastal environment. The par-3 3rd is an early highlight, playing toward the sea with wind often influencing both club choice and shot shape. Along the back nine, the par-4 12th stands out, requiring a confident tee shot to set up an approach into a green framed by dunes and ocean views. The closing stretch is particularly strong, with several holes running close to the water and demanding careful judgment as conditions change. Greens are generally generous but subtly contoured, encouraging approach shots that feed in rather than fly directly to the hole. Waterville Golf Links delivers a balanced round that combines scenic variety with sound links principles, offering a memorable and playable test for golfers of all levels.
| Course | Ballybunion (Old) (https://www.ballybuniongolfclub.com/) |
| Ranking | World #17 #1 Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Ballybunion, County Kerry, Ireland |
| Built | 1893 |
| Architect | James McKenna |
The Old Course at Ballybunion is one of the most recognized links in Ireland, set high above the Atlantic along a rugged stretch of County Kerry coastline. First laid out in the late 19th century and shaped over time by the land itself, the course is defined by dramatic dunes, rolling fairways, and constantly changing wind. While visually imposing, the Old Course rewards confident decision-making and an understanding of traditional links play. The opening holes move away from the clubhouse before turning back toward the sea, where the course finds its strongest stretch. The par-4 7th, “Watson’s,” is a clear highlight, playing along the edge of the coastline with an approach that demands accuracy to a green perched near the cliffs. Shortly after, the par-3 15th offers a striking tee shot over a chasm of dunes to a green set against the ocean, where distance control is essential. Throughout the round, fairways often appear narrow due to surrounding dunes, but offer more room than first appears. Greens are well protected yet fair, encouraging thoughtful approaches and creative recovery shots. Ballybunion’s Old Course delivers a demanding but rewarding round, combining natural drama with classic links design that leaves a lasting impression.
| Course | Lahinch (Old) (https://lahinchgolf.com/) |
| Ranking | World #33 #2 Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Dough, County Clare, Ireland |
| Built | 1892 |
| Architect | Old Tom Morris, Charles Gibson, Alister MacKenzie, Martin Hawtree |
The Old Course at Lahinch is a classic example of links golf shaped as much by history as by the land itself. Originally laid out in 1892 and later refined by Old Tom Morris and Alister MacKenzie, the course is known for its natural routing, rolling fairways, and distinctive blind shots. Set along the Atlantic coast in County Clare, Lahinch places a premium on local knowledge, imagination, and trust. The opening stretch introduces the character of the course, but it is the early holes that leave a lasting impression. The par-4 5th, known as the “White Rocks,” features a blind tee shot over a dune to a fairway beyond, requiring players to commit fully to their line. Later, the par-3 6th, “Klondyke,” demands a confident strike over a massive dune to a hidden green, one of the most talked-about shots in links golf. These holes reflect Lahinch’s willingness to embrace unconventional design in service of the terrain. As the round continues, the course becomes more open and coastal, with wind playing an increasing role in shot selection. Greens are subtly contoured and well integrated into the natural ground, rewarding thoughtful approaches. Lahinch’s Old Course delivers a distinctive, traditional links experience that values creativity and confidence over predictability.
| Course | Portmarnock Golf Links (https://www.portmarnock.com/golf/) |
| Ranking | #21 Ireland (https://www.top100golfcourses.com/) |
| Location | Portmarnock, County Dublin, Ireland |
| Built | 1996 |
| Architect | Bernhard Langer |
This was our last round and one we considered to be a bonus round after an incredible trip. We were staying at the Portmarnock Resort and the course was adjacent to the property. Today the course is called Jameson Golf Links somewhat in an attempt to distinguish itself from the World Top 100 Portmarnock Golf Club that is located in close proximity as well as create its own identity in that the property is located on the old Jameson Estate of St. Marnocks. The course has played host to several professional and amateur events while in the shadow of the major hosting Portmarnock Golf Club. We found this to be a very enjoyable round and great way to end our trip. The course was challenging yet playable and a proper links experience.